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Patterns #1345 & #1346 - design process

7/23/2014

8 Comments

 
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The people at Simplicity noticed that many young people are dressing for Halloween by mixing and matching different elements, so they asked me to come up with a set of themed corsets and skirts that could be used in this way.

For some reason I found this more difficult to design that other patterns I've done, so I thought I would share with you some of this design process that started with their request for mix and match corsets and skirts and ended up with what you see in the photo above.
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Take a look at my first sketch. 

For this I got the comment "good start!" I just wasn't quite understanding what the design department wanted yet.

With this sketch I sent along this note.


Current thoughts on potential Corset Pattern

I like very much the look of shabby chic and using lighter colors, but it would be nice to work in at least one view that is suggestive of Steampunk.  That would be a lighter colored Steampunk, not black, not leather look.

How many views are wanted???
Then, what variations are best ... mix and match
I really love the lacy one with the shaggy lace collar and rose. I also like having a little shrug that can be worn with a corset either with cap sleeves and/or long. And a stand up collar looks good.

So, when I know more what everyone likes, I will refine and sketch again.



I was told the shaggy lace one that I loved so much was too much of a "fashion" look, not the costume look they wanted.
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What they wanted were specific themes and four views for each pattern.  So this is what it ended up being ... a witch, a rainbow unicorn, a saloon girl and a quasi steampunk look.
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Even though it was to be two separate patterns, I designed each skirt to coordinate with each corset. They like to do what is call "editorial" shots for the catalog and I knew they would combine the pieces for some nice pictures like the one at the top of this blog.

Now take note of my hand written comment at the bottom of the skirt sketch, you will see what happened with that later. HA

Next came the choosing of the fabrics, which also I found difficult.  Simplicity has it's own line of trims and always prefers if I use them. And this time they sent me a big box of different trims and said "use these." So, I was doing my best to find fabrics that would work well with their trims.
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The witch was easy. Black lace over orange ... no brainer and there were several interesting black trims. Choosing the fabrics for the rainbow one was fun. They wanted me to specifically use the rainbow rick rack. You should have seen my shopping cart at Joann's. I kept changing my mind as to the exact shade of the different colors of fabric, so I must have had 20 bolts loaded in there, falling off and bumping into things as I walked down the isles.
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Again, to use the trims sent to me, I chose black and brown for the steampunk view. And because I wanted to add a long skirt, I chose this orange and purple stripe, which looked great with a couple of the purple trims. It was a stripy month for me!
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All these trims were just making it so hard for me to see the forest for the trees. I found this terrific metallic magenta fabric for the saloon girl's corset and I was trying and trying to see which trims looked best.
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But the choices weren't over ... sigh ... I had to find a fabric for the skirt! Nothing looked good to me.  But, I kind of liked this gold.  And I thought an optional long skirt would be a nice thing to offer.

Confession ... I'm always trying to put in too many choices in my patterns. I want to give people options, but it often ends up looking too busy and confusing.  So, you will see what Simplicity did to this when they got their hands on it.
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I also sent in a photo of the the materials I wanted to use inside the corsets.  If you want your corset to open and close in the front, there really is nothing that will work as well as a busk closure that has to be purchased from a corset supplier. So, you may as well use steel bones and everything else you can get from places like that. That stuff just makes a better corset.

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Don't you think this long skirt and bustle is CUTE!

I did.

But Simplicity, not wanting to confuse the message, thought all the skirts should be short and sexy, so chopped it off and re-hemmed it.  But, you can make it long again, if you want!
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And look what happened to this one.  After I sent it in I got a call saying they thought the gathered apron was too full and could they cut it down.  I said, of course. But didn't realize they were going to totally remake it in another color, but I like what they did.

And the orange and black skirt went through an equally big change I will show you next time.

I am SO glad this wasn't my first project with them. I don't think I would have ever been hired back to do another. So many mistakes and false starts, but we are all human!!
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8 Comments
Lex
7/23/2014 06:05:05 pm

Urgh. I'm really disappointed in the narrow-mindedness of Simplicity. Not every woman looking for a 'fun' costume wants to go for the 'Short and slutty' look. Equally not all of us have the time and money to spend on 10+ yards of fabric for the really impressive gown patterns (or necessarily the skills to put them together). I really liked the long skirt and frilly bustle and can see this could easily be put together from an old bedsheet or whatever (you can buy the corsets on ebay for less than it would cost to make them so I can see many people just opting to buy a skirt pattern). I really like your 'as many options as possible' ethos and am disappointed at how they've taken away the choice to be EITHER long OR short.

I'm lucky in that I enjoy making the gowns (although recently I've started French Seaming everything because I was annoyed with how 'ragged' my seams look as I don't have a serger) and find the range of your historical and fantasy patterns excellent for my needs, but as a 'larger' woman I'd really like to have some costume options that aren't all enormous sewing projects needing 10s of yards of fabric.

Reply
Kelli
7/24/2014 01:23:49 pm

you give us the ideas and the basics, that's what is important. Lengthening and shortening are all part of the costume process. You have to alter and adapt because not every style looks good on every person. i use your patterns almost exclusively because I love the looks. thanks for sharing

Reply
Pojojuniper
9/6/2014 11:58:00 pm

I bought this pattern not for Halloween but for my "everyday" steampunk wear. I am making the bustle out of vintage silk brocade panels that had been used for curtains. Haven't finished yet, but really excited about how the project is coming along! Thanks.

Reply
Andrea
9/7/2014 10:50:39 pm

Write me from my contact page when you are finished and after I respond, you can send me a photo. I would love to see what you've done!

Reply
Belle
10/25/2014 03:13:16 pm

So im actually making F right now, and was totally shocked when reading the instructions- am I confused or am I just supposed to stick the bustle in the back on my skirt which is really an apron? Help would be SO appreciated, if you don't mind- this pattern is so gorgeous but no way could I wear it to school if my butt will stick out

Reply
Andrea
10/26/2014 04:34:42 am

Bellle,
The feathers are draped over a bustle, which IS basically a butt pillow. This is a copy of a fashion from the Victorian times around 1880. Ladies would pad themselves in the back like that because it made their waists look smaller. That is what was considered beautiful at that time. So, for fun people now a days copy that look. Now, you could make that pillow a little smaller if you don't want it so large. That's the great part about making your own costume, you can chang things to suit your taste. But if you want the feathers in the back you will need some kind of a pillow to pin them onto.
Does that help? You will look great in this costume!

Reply
Kristin Lail link
12/4/2014 10:58:31 am

I just picked up this pattern and I"m excited to try it out. I DO like the long look but as I'm making this a steampunk Elsa...we're leaving it short and pairing it with white leggings for my 13 year old. So interesting to see from the design process!

Reply
Denise
4/21/2018 09:56:49 pm

Very Interesting seeing the design process! Thank you.

Reply

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    From Andrea 

    I am a commercial pattern maker who is now "sewing over 50"!
    I love to sew and hope to encourage others to come back to sewing.
    The water is fine!!

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