So, how to approach this ... hmmm
As I said before, the problem I was having was finding the right kind of underwire in the size range I needed, but after talking to Linda Sparks of Farthingales, I had eliminated the underwrite and made a Misses size sample without one. Now I needed to size it up to the 44D.
There are no photos of all this, but I will do my best to tell you the story. It just so happens that Nicole Tapanes, who is the assistant head of pattern production (I'm guess at the exact title, but that is what she does), is very close to the sample size needed for Simpliciy's Plus size and I needed to get this thing on a human body.
She kindly agreed to be my fitting model and sent me all the necessary measurements. I made up a really good mock up, complete with steel boning. With bones going over the bust like I described in my last blog and lacing in the back. I took a trip up to Simplicity to fit Nicole along with the help of Deborah Kreiling the head of production.
The body of the corset fit great, but the bust cup on her was falling forward like the one had done on me!!! grrr ... I thought the bone going over the bust would solve that problem. So, I started tucking and pinning and pinning and tucking, and then realized I was turning the bust cup into the shape of the bust cup that would have used the "demi" underwire that I couldn't use before because "demi" underwires are not commercially available for the home sewer in all the sizes we needed, but then ... I can't believe it took me so long to figure this out ... I realized we weren't using underwires anymore ... I COULD use the demi style bust cup which hugs the body much better.
TAH DAH!!! problem solved!
Now had I ever taken a bra making class this would have been much easier, but I like figuring things out. I really understand the two cup styles and the advantages of both.
Now I can start thinking about fabrics and sewing up all 4 photo samples!