#8201 - NOT a corset ... a bustier!

The top of this costume looks like a corset but, at least in my definition, is not. I call it a bustier because it zips in the back, it has a complete lining and I used plastic Ridgeline boning sewn to the seams of the lining instead of using bones inserted into bone tape sewn over the seams of the outer fabric. Basically it is made like a modern special occasion dress.

I will explain why.

First of all I want to show all the separate parts of this costume. It starts with the little A-line skirt and the midriff top that is designed to be worn with a strapless top.

Next is the strapless top ... AKA bustier.

And the sectioned over-sleeves which stay on because they are attached to a band collar.

I thought it would look good to wear black gloves, but the stylist in charge of photography thought otherwise. So ... you can do whatever you think is best!

Now here is reason one for my choice to make this a bustier instead of a corset.

This camouflage view has appliqués sewn to it. These need to go over the seams.

Which would make it really difficult to impossible to sew boning over those seam allowance. And I don't want topstitching from the boning showing on the outset.

BTW, the bright pink interlining, is because I had this on hand, it was the perfect weight and when the costume is finished it won't matter what color it is.

Instead, I sewed plastic boning to the seam allowances of the lining.

Also, this shiny vinyl is a super pain to work with. It's difficult to iron.

Big reason number two for not construction this like a corset with bone tape stitch to the outside.

It can be done, but carefully with a pressing cloth.

Great care needs to be taken when pinning this vinyl. Use very fine pins and try to only pin in the seam allowance area.

A Teflon foot is HUGE help. If you don't have one, place thin tissue paper over the vinyl and stitch through that. Tear it away when finished.

Note that my cut edges don't exactly match up. You have to go by feel. Smooth out the lumps and if the edges don't match ... so be it. 

The white vinyl bustier also has a decorative element that goes over all the seams ... that strip of black bias tape. Because it is impossible to mark on shiny vinyl like this. It just wipes off. I mark on the interfacing and (with a very long stitch) machine sew on that line.

That stitching will be visible on the right side ...

becoming the guide for applying the bias tape decoration.

This bustier is lined like an evening dress. The lining is attached to the outer fabric along the to edge.

Which I under stitch like you would a facing. This give a nice top edge and ensures the lining stays rolled to the inside.

After the bottom edges are basted together, the bottom hip band is sewn on, which serves to finish the bottom of the bustier, too.

Now the zipper ... OY!  I can't think of a worse fabric to sew a zipper into.

First press the seam allowance back ... 

Carefully with a pressing cloth.

This is a separating zipper, so one side is applied first. Sew the zipper only to the seam allowance first. It is probably going to be too long, so make sure it lines up at the bottom, where the hardware for joining the two sides is. And allow it to extend off the top.

Then for a second stitching fold the pressed seam allowance back and stitch the zipper with the seam allowance down. 

For this and all stitching on vinyl use a LONG STITCH.

Here the zipper has extended off the top. You can see it is clipped. It will get tucked in. 

I whipstitch the seam allowance to the lining and through to the interfacing of the bustier to hold the zipper firmer and keep it from gapping if the bustier fits tightly.

The second side needs to be VERY CAREFULLY pinned so the two sides match up when zipped.

It is sewn the same way. In this photo you can see how the extended piece of zipper from the first side is tucked in. I did this by hand at the same time as whipstitching the seam allowance down.

When there is a will there's a way!!