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Amazing Fit Corset #1183 - making the Plus size

2/27/2015

5 Comments

 
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OK, so I'm getting closer to fixing all the problems I'm having with this bust cup corset and now need to turn my head to the plus size sample. The Misses and the Plus size have to be exactly the same, same number of pieces, same basic configuration, just different sizes.
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I've had to do this many times before when making the same pattern in different size ranges. I had to put in a tiny (not really needed) dart in the front bodice of the size 4 child, because the Misses size had a dart there. 


So, how to approach this ... hmmm
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By this point I already have every bra pattern I could get my hands on and now I bought identical long line strapless bras in the two sizes I needed, 32B and 44D.  These two garments were seamed and patterned exactly the same as each other, just what I needed to do the same with my pattern.  

As I said before, the problem I was having was finding the right kind of underwire in the size range I needed, but after talking to Linda Sparks of Farthingales, I had eliminated the underwrite and made a Misses size sample without one. Now I needed to size it up to the 44D.
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I had my comparison measurement chart for both sizes complete with bust point placement.
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And I had my Simplicity size 22 foam "Uniquely Your's" dress form and I went to work. 

There are no photos of all this, but I will do my best to tell you the story. It just so happens that Nicole Tapanes, who is the assistant head of pattern production (I'm guess at the exact title, but that is what she does), is very close to the sample size needed for Simpliciy's Plus size and I needed to get this thing on a human body. 

She kindly agreed to be my fitting model and sent me all the necessary measurements. I made up a really good mock up, complete with steel boning. With bones going over the bust like I described in my last blog and lacing in the back. I took a trip up to Simplicity to fit Nicole along with the help of Deborah Kreiling the head of production.

The body of the corset fit great, but the bust cup on her was falling forward like the one had done on me!!! grrr ... I thought the bone going over the bust would solve that problem. So, I started tucking and pinning and pinning and tucking, and then realized I was turning the bust cup into the shape of the bust cup that would have used the "demi" underwire that I couldn't use before because "demi" underwires are not commercially available for the home sewer in all the sizes we needed, but then ... I can't believe it took me so long to figure this out ... I realized we weren't using underwires anymore ... I COULD use the demi style bust cup which hugs the body much better.


TAH DAH!!! problem solved!
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So this is how the pattern changed. Here are the three front bodice pieces taped together so that the bust cup is complete and the correct shape. See the green line? That is the new line for the wider, shallower bust cup that would have used the "demi" underwire.  The tighter "U" is the bust cup arch I had been using that wasn't working. SEE, you can earn while you learn!

Now had I ever taken a bra making class this would have been much easier, but I like figuring things out. I really understand the two cup styles and the advantages of both.
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Here are the working pattern pieces for the front of the corset, including the front facing for when a busk closure is used and ...
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These are the back pieces, which include the modesty flap that is tacked behind the lacings.


Now I can start thinking about fabrics and sewing up all 4 photo samples!  


Stay tuned.
5 Comments
Mi link
2/27/2015 05:25:40 am

I'm loving reading this series! A friend of mine has wanted me to make her a corset for a long while now but I've been too intimidated because I've only made corsets for me, an A cup, while she's a DD!
This pattern looks perfect for us!

Reply
Denise
2/27/2015 06:46:44 am

Doesn't the center front busk closure also give some support to the cups?

Reply
Andrea
2/27/2015 10:32:08 pm

Denise,
The front bone or busk helps to keep the corset straight BETWEEN the boobs, but does nothing for the actual cup. That narrower cup arch was forcing the breast outward in a way that could not be supported without straps.
Lesson learned!
thanks for asking
Andrea

Reply
CeshionCo link
3/1/2015 12:09:47 pm

I am very fascinated by the way you create patterns, as a new pattern maker myself plus I am a corset maker and bra fitter.

Can you clarify some confusion I have? I am baffled on how the cups are graded!

It is my understanding & schooling that patterns are made to fit B cups. From what I have read and understand is you fitted them to Miss-10 28E & Womens-22 38F*. Based off of the measurements pictured. But the back of the envelope states that these are A cups and only graded up the cup size by half an inch! Making the "DD" pattern pieces for Miss-10 fit person with 28F and Womens-22 fit 38FF that is only a cup size difference!(I just cross reference other "amazing" "fit" patterns and they all grade the cup size by half an inch! Simplicity has some weird grade rule!)

Going off my Bra fitting experience:
Based off of the fit issue on Nicole Tapanes, on the Plus size women pictured on the envelope, based off you stuffing with a sock the Underwire/ seam should land on the Imfamory fold line. http://i.imgur.com/kdRjJU6.png You make the cups tall, to compinsate you then made them shallow (they don't stick out from the chest like the real breast does). Nicole's breast tissue is more projected then the patterned cup and you 'fixed' it by smushing to the side. :/

*Being plus size means that a 'she' would want a smaller band to hold her breast better and larger cup to be the same volume as 40E. The stretchiness of the band would 'add' too much ease.

Reply
Andrea
3/1/2015 08:53:53 pm

I will answer the questions I can. First Nicole was my fitting model, not the photography model and your description of fitting her sounds like what I did.
As far as grading, I don't do that, but I can tell you that this pattern is graded differently than the other Amazing Fit patterns. It is being graded like a bra pattern where as all the others are graded like garment pattern.
The sample sizes were 34B and 44D. Maybe the back of the envelope doesn't state things quite correctly.
Andrea

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    I am a commercial pattern maker who is now "sewing over 50"!
    I love to sew and hope to encourage others to come back to sewing.
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