Amazing Fit Corset #1183 - making the Plus size

OK, so I'm getting closer to fixing all the problems I'm having with this bust cup corset and now need to turn my head to the plus size sample. The Misses and the Plus size have to be exactly the same, same number of pieces, same basic configuration, just different sizes.

I've had to do this many times before when making the same pattern in different size ranges. I had to put in a tiny (not really needed) dart in the front bodice of the size 4 child, because the Misses size had a dart there. 


So, how to approach this ... hmmm

By this point I already have every bra pattern I could get my hands on and now I bought identical long line strapless bras in the two sizes I needed, 32B and 44D.  These two garments were seamed and patterned exactly the same as each other, just what I needed to do the same with my pattern.  

As I said before, the problem I was having was finding the right kind of underwire in the size range I needed, but after talking to Linda Sparks of Farthingales, I had eliminated the underwrite and made a Misses size sample without one. Now I needed to size it up to the 44D.

I had my comparison measurement chart for both sizes complete with bust point placement.

And I had my Simplicity size 22 foam "Uniquely Your's" dress form and I went to work. 

There are no photos of all this, but I will do my best to tell you the story. It just so happens that Nicole Tapanes, who is the assistant head of pattern production (I'm guess at the exact title, but that is what she does), is very close to the sample size needed for Simpliciy's Plus size and I needed to get this thing on a human body. 

She kindly agreed to be my fitting model and sent me all the necessary measurements. I made up a really good mock up, complete with steel boning. With bones going over the bust like I described in my last blog and lacing in the back. I took a trip up to Simplicity to fit Nicole along with the help of Deborah Kreiling the head of production.

The body of the corset fit great, but the bust cup on her was falling forward like the one had done on me!!! grrr ... I thought the bone going over the bust would solve that problem. So, I started tucking and pinning and pinning and tucking, and then realized I was turning the bust cup into the shape of the bust cup that would have used the "demi" underwire that I couldn't use before because "demi" underwires are not commercially available for the home sewer in all the sizes we needed, but then ... I can't believe it took me so long to figure this out ... I realized we weren't using underwires anymore ... I COULD use the demi style bust cup which hugs the body much better.


TAH DAH!!! problem solved!

So this is how the pattern changed. Here are the three front bodice pieces taped together so that the bust cup is complete and the correct shape. See the green line? That is the new line for the wider, shallower bust cup that would have used the "demi" underwire.  The tighter "U" is the bust cup arch I had been using that wasn't working. SEE, you can earn while you learn!

Now had I ever taken a bra making class this would have been much easier, but I like figuring things out. I really understand the two cup styles and the advantages of both.

Here are the working pattern pieces for the front of the corset, including the front facing for when a busk closure is used and ...

These are the back pieces, which include the modesty flap that is tacked behind the lacings.


Now I can start thinking about fabrics and sewing up all 4 photo samples!  


Stay tuned.