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Amazing Fit Corset #1183 - materials

3/2/2015

2 Comments

 
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Now comes the fun part, actually making these corsets. But, it took a while for the fabrics to be chosen. Since this pattern was destined for the fashion section of the catalog the fabrics had to be fashion forward. All the fabrics had to be approved by the Simplicity office. I wanted to use this black and red brocade coutil, but it was thought to be costume looking. 
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This was the only fabric choice of mine that the fashion department liked. 
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MY sample looked like this. But ...
look at the photograph on the envelope!

I didn't know they had color mapped it RED!

Apparently, it didn't photograph well being white and pink, so they changed the color.

The model looks great though, can't complain.
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All the seams are covered on the inside with bone tape.  I used tubular bone tape that 1/4" steel boning fits inside.

All these supplies can be purchased at Vogue Fabrics. Just click the the add on the right.
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I used corset coutil (also available at Vogue Fabrics) sewn behind ll all the fashion fabrics.  Doing this allows pretty much any fabric to be used on the outside, since the coutil provides the necessary support.
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Coutil is a tiny herringbone weave if you look closely.
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This fabric was chosen by the people at Simplicity. It is a stretch cotton sateen, which isn't a problem since there is coutil sewn along with it.  I have about a yard left of this fabric and want to make myself something with it.
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You can see the busk closer on the corset above and the one below (also available from Vogue Fabrics!)
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The corset can be made with or without a front busk closer. This blue polka dot quilting cotton was chosen by Simplicity.
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The bust cups are to be lined with broadcloth, but I decided to have fun with prints inside. The purple polka dots are inside that large watercolor print. The multi color strip was for the blue polka dot and the white/pink corset had that tiny floral print you can see in a photo above. 


Next time I will discuss some of the sewing techniques I used.
2 Comments
Jen in Oz
3/2/2015 04:57:06 am

I've just finished making Simplicity 2172 about which you blogged a little while back. I notice on this corset you seem to have done the same with the boning as is in the instructions on the 2172; sewing the boning channels directly onto the outer fabric. The boning I had in my stash was (I think) Rigeline that has no cover with it, so I was researching online about sewing in boning. What I found almost always said to sew the boning or the channels to the lining rather than to the outer fabric. So I'm curious about why you've (apparently ) sewn it to the outer fabric?
(I ended up making channels out of bias binding and covering the ends of the boning pieces with an extra square of the same. Sadly that last bit didn't really help much and there are nylon rods sticking out through my fabric into my waistline now. Not sure what to do about that!)

Reply
Andrea
3/2/2015 06:10:27 am

Jen, There are really two different kind of constructions one is a true corset construction with no real lining. The pieces are flat lined so the seams are exposed and then covered with boning. This makes for a corset that give more support and can be laced tighter. The construction you are describing is modern, evening wear construction. It looks nicer inside but doesn't take tight lacing as well. Ridgeline works best with the evening wear construction. Perhaps you should have used a tightly woven twill tape to make your bone casings.

Andrea

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    I am a commercial pattern maker who is now "sewing over 50"!
    I love to sew and hope to encourage others to come back to sewing.
    The water is fine!!

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