Amazing Fit Corset #1183 - sewing

This will be my last blog about these corsets. I have some random sewing photographs that should be a nice supplement to the guide sheet that comes in the pattern. I get so involved while sewing, I often forget to stop and take pictures. AND, I often am working on a tight deadline and don't have time to take too many photos, but I think the few I have will be of interest.

The inner cups are backed with fleece. It is a good idea to trim away the fleece that's in the seam allowance.

Then I like to use the 3 step zig zag right over the seam to hold the seam allowances out and flat. Many store bought bras are done this way.

If you've been reading all the other blogs I wrote about this corset, you will know I had to figure out a way to have one of the bones go up and over the bust. But, I didn't want the boning to show from the outside of the bust cup. All the other boning is machine stitched through to the outside. It's kind of a design feature. But, the bit of boning that is inside the bust cup has to be slip stitched just to the lining of the cup, like this.

The corset has an under bust inside stay or band that hooks separately to hold the bottom of the bust cups against the body. This needs to be hand tacked to all the seams over the bone tape.  I thought you might like to see the stitch I used, looks like an embroidery cross stitch.

Look closely, the inside waist stay on this 1890's bodice is attached with similar cross stitches.

After the bone tape is sewn to the inner cup with the bone inserted, and the waist stay is tacked in place, the fit will be better if that bone is bent at the bottom of the bust cup.  I used the edge of a screw driver to force the bone to bend exactly at that point.

Another challenge making a corset with a bust cup that closes with a metal busk closure, is keeping the breasts close together. If the busk closure goes all the way to the top of the front opening, that would force the bust cups to be almost 2 inches apart!!!

So, I created a little pattern piece that makes a casing for a short piece of boning that extends above the busk.  Hand sewn hooks and eyes are then used to hold this upper part of the front opening together.

This photo just shows how I used the busk piece itself to determine where to leave the facing seam open to let the hooks parts through.

Because the coutil interfacing is pretty thick, I find it easier to fold an edge for hemming if I trim away the coutil and the press the fashion fabric over that.

A zipper foot is needed to stitch the facing over the busk.

For the side with the little knobs, you have to stitch from the right side and feel through all the fabric so you don't miss stitching the folded facing edge.

A lot of hand sewing is needed in the area around the bust cup. The bone is sticking out there, just to show where it will go.  It should be pushed all the way in.

Next I wanted to show you was how I matched up the lace motifs on the black lace corset. Each piece has to be cut separately. After the first piece is cut, a good motif match needs to be found to sew it to the second piece and so forth. Then mirror image motifs need to be found for all the pieces on the opposite side of the body. I use the actual cut pieces from the first side to use as pattern pieces for the second. That makes finding the matching motifs easier.

It is so satisfying to get things to match like this.

Last, I want to show how I finished the ends of the lacing ribbons to make it easy to poke them in and out of the eyelets.

First, pleat up the cut end.

Then, wrap and wrap with thread, sew a few stitches and secure. Then a dot of glue on the end to keep it from fraying.


So, that's it! I'm always happy to answer any questions, if I can. So, please ask.