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Amazing Fit Corset #1183 - the assignment

2/23/2015

8 Comments

 
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I, as a someone who sews her own clothing, really like Simplicity's Amazing Fit line of patterns. The designs are flattering and well thought out to make fitting easy.  SO, I mentioned a couple years ago that perhaps Simplicity should publish an Amazing Fit corset that would have options for different bust cup sizes and hip to waist ratios, etc. Good idea, right? Fitting corsets can be hard!

I imagined a basic corset with probably 6 shaped panels, 3 in front and 3 in back. I wasn't holding my breath, though. I frequently suggest things that never happen.  BUT, about a year ago, the word came through that everyone was liking my idea for an Amazing Fit corset BUT! ... they wanted a corset with separate bust cups AND!!!! they wanted it in plus sizes.

So, I was excited and challenged. I felt the responsibility of something labeled "Amazing Fit" keenly and wanted to get it right. This is how I got started. 
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First, I had to plan out the basic design. It seems by this point, I had also figured out what bra size a Misses 10 and Women's 22 would be. These are the sizes Simplicity wants all the samples made.  Two samples were needed because the corset was going to be published in 2 size categories.
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I, also, had to come up with some styling ideas for photography which, over time, became much simpler. I tend to over design. Probably because I'm used to costumes, not fashion.
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Next, I had to figure out the bust cup!! I've made bras before. I can do this.

I found and printed out charts and diagrams for every underwire that the average consumer could buy and started experimenting with patterns.
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I first made mock ups in muslin with plastic boning sewing in the center of the panels because it is easier to adjust the seams if there is no boning sewn to each seam. The finished corset will have boning on each seam.
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I struggled with the bust cup, changing it multiple times. You can see I am using a foam "Uniquely You" dress form. I find these better when working on corsets because they have give in them similar to a human body.
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Next, I made up a wearable sample in duck cloth with an underwire, slightly padded cup. and steel boning. 
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I made it in my size. (I am one size larger than Simplicity's sample size, so grading it up a tad isn't hard) I wanted to test drive this baby.
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Not bad ... I wasn't completely happy with the cup though. Here was my main problem.

I was working with the underwires that were available. I had to use the same kind of wire for all the sizes that this pattern was going to be published in and the "demi" wire that's best for strapless bras didn't come in the 2 or 3 largest sizes I needed, so I was working with a regular underwire that is best for bras with straps. The bust cup for this wire is narrower and projects outward which, even with the support from the padding, was pulling away from my body.

Well, I couldn't figure it out better at this point and I wanted a corset to wear with my fairy wardrobe for Costume Con in Toronto. 
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I hoped that in the process of making this corset all would be made and I could solve the sagging bust cup problem. HA!
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In going through all the photos I took while making this corset, I realized this was the during the 2 or 3 weeks I owned my BIG fancy new Bernina, that kept objecting to sewing corset materials. Clearly not a good machine for me. Read the blogs I wrote about that. 
 Blog 1, Blog 2, Blog 3, Blog 4
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Still tinkering with the bust cup fit.  Tightening the chest helped the bust support, but didn't really solve it. Never give up!
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THIS is what my pattern looked like!
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But, I finished and wore my corset in Toronto ... even though I had to stuff some socks in the bust cups to help the fit ... really!


More on Wednesday ... I DO figure this out ... with a little help.
8 Comments
Nonye
2/23/2015 10:19:40 am

Yay! Thank you for sharing this with us and making your suggestions to the company! Just last month I wanted to make a cute corset and was surprised Simplicity came out with a corset that is not for a Halloween costume but for fashion AND very cute. Hopefully my Joanns in Southern California will have these in stock during their 5 for $5 sale. I will be one of the first in line.
BTW are you a patternmaker? I saw some techniques that you did that only a skilled patternmaker would know. [I'm a fashion student planning to open my own fashion line soon].

Reply
Andrea
2/23/2015 10:15:26 pm

Yes Nonya, I am a pattern maker. I design, pattern and sew all my own designs and do the pattern/sample making for some of the designer who don't make patterns.

Good luck with your venture.
Andrea

Reply
Nonye
3/1/2015 03:08:20 pm

Thanks for responding, I would greatly appreciate it if you can recommend books or websites where I can learn patternmaking. I took the class last year and had a VERY difficult time learning it. I have the Patternmaking for Designers textbook but that's it.

Thank you

Andrea
3/1/2015 08:59:20 pm

Nonye, I really don't know of any books to recommend. I drape more than do flat pattern making. Once you know the basics, the best way to learn is by doing. I recommend finding ways to practice, even it if it simply making things for yourself.
good luck, Andrea

Reply
Alison
8/24/2015 03:04:36 am

Hi Andrea,

I am actually really struggling with this pattern, it looks fabulous on you however I can't get the cups right either! Also do you know if this pattern came with seam allowances on it? It says the seam allowance on the pattern pieces but this might be where I'm going very wrong!

Reply
Alison
8/24/2015 10:09:08 pm

There ARE seam allowances. I recommend you look at a all the other blogs I wrote about this pattern. There are 5 or 6. If you hover over the word "Blog" at the top of this page, a dropdown menu will appear. Click on the words "my patterns by number" then scroll down to # 1183. If you are still confused after looking at all of those, I recommend contacting Customer Service at Simplicity. They are REALLY good at explaining how to sew things. Good luck!

Reply
Nicole
11/29/2015 09:03:12 pm

I get that this has adjustable sizing, but what if your body type is far off in left field? I've got a weird bust to under bust ratio that makes bra fitting nearly impossible. Is the pattern adjustable for someone who has a 32I bra size?

Reply
Andrea
11/30/2015 06:09:15 am

Nicole, I would recommend you contact the Simplicity Customer Service people. The number should be on the pattern tissue somewhere and probably on the guide sheet. I was not involved in the grading process for this pattern. The one thing I can tell you, though ... make a muslin mock up, maybe more than one. Sew boning into your mock up, too. or it won't behave the way the way the final version will.
I truly hope it works out for you.
Andrea

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    I am a commercial pattern maker who is now "sewing over 50"!
    I love to sew and hope to encourage others to come back to sewing.
    The water is fine!!

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