Amazing Fit Corset #1183 - the assignment

I, as a someone who sews her own clothing, really like Simplicity's Amazing Fit line of patterns. The designs are flattering and well thought out to make fitting easy.  SO, I mentioned a couple years ago that perhaps Simplicity should publish an Amazing Fit corset that would have options for different bust cup sizes and hip to waist ratios, etc. Good idea, right? Fitting corsets can be hard!

I imagined a basic corset with probably 6 shaped panels, 3 in front and 3 in back. I wasn't holding my breath, though. I frequently suggest things that never happen.  BUT, about a year ago, the word came through that everyone was liking my idea for an Amazing Fit corset BUT! ... they wanted a corset with separate bust cups AND!!!! they wanted it in plus sizes.

So, I was excited and challenged. I felt the responsibility of something labeled "Amazing Fit" keenly and wanted to get it right. This is how I got started. 

First, I had to plan out the basic design. It seems by this point, I had also figured out what bra size a Misses 10 and Women's 22 would be. These are the sizes Simplicity wants all the samples made.  Two samples were needed because the corset was going to be published in 2 size categories.

I, also, had to come up with some styling ideas for photography which, over time, became much simpler. I tend to over design. Probably because I'm used to costumes, not fashion.

Next, I had to figure out the bust cup!! I've made bras before. I can do this.

I found and printed out charts and diagrams for every underwire that the average consumer could buy and started experimenting with patterns.

I first made mock ups in muslin with plastic boning sewing in the center of the panels because it is easier to adjust the seams if there is no boning sewn to each seam. The finished corset will have boning on each seam.

I struggled with the bust cup, changing it multiple times. You can see I am using a foam "Uniquely You" dress form. I find these better when working on corsets because they have give in them similar to a human body.

Next, I made up a wearable sample in duck cloth with an underwire, slightly padded cup. and steel boning. 

I made it in my size. (I am one size larger than Simplicity's sample size, so grading it up a tad isn't hard) I wanted to test drive this baby.

Not bad ... I wasn't completely happy with the cup though. Here was my main problem.

I was working with the underwires that were available. I had to use the same kind of wire for all the sizes that this pattern was going to be published in and the "demi" wire that's best for strapless bras didn't come in the 2 or 3 largest sizes I needed, so I was working with a regular underwire that is best for bras with straps. The bust cup for this wire is narrower and projects outward which, even with the support from the padding, was pulling away from my body.

Well, I couldn't figure it out better at this point and I wanted a corset to wear with my fairy wardrobe for Costume Con in Toronto. 

I hoped that in the process of making this corset all would be made and I could solve the sagging bust cup problem. HA!

In going through all the photos I took while making this corset, I realized this was the during the 2 or 3 weeks I owned my BIG fancy new Bernina, that kept objecting to sewing corset materials. Clearly not a good machine for me. Read the blogs I wrote about that. 
 Blog 1, Blog 2, Blog 3, Blog 4

Still tinkering with the bust cup fit.  Tightening the chest helped the bust support, but didn't really solve it. Never give up!

THIS is what my pattern looked like!

But, I finished and wore my corset in Toronto ... even though I had to stuff some socks in the bust cups to help the fit ... really!


More on Wednesday ... I DO figure this out ... with a little help.