Civil War Day Dresses Pattern #1818

7/9/2013

Where do I do my research?
While I don't specialize in period correct historic costumes, I take them very seriously and do my best to provide a pattern that will be useful to the people involved in reenactments.
So, when asked to make a new 1860s dress pattern, I wanted to make a day dress, because I know that is what is worn most.
I searched on line in various library archives and costumer's blogs for fashion plates and photographs from the Civil War until I found a pair of dresses that were different from anything else Simplicity had published AND could be made with mostly the same pattern pieces. There is only so much room in a pattern envelope and this is an issue I constantly have to deal with.
Here is the Godey's Lady's Book image I used from 1863.

See the two ladies on the right? Those are my gals ... I even had a hat specially made to be worn with the aqua dress by Lynnette Miller at Miller's Millinery.
Wouldn't it be fun to make every dress in this illustration!

For fun ... here is a photo I took just before sending these dresses into Simplicity. Please forgive the hoop showing. I didn't put a petticoat over the the hoop skirt. This photo was just taken for me, at that point I didn't dream I would be writing about my work!

If you notice, the color isn't the same as the pattern envelope. Simplicity sometime's asks me to make things in neutral colors and they color map with Photoshop.

And, in case you wondered how I made all the wide bias for the hem. Here is a photo I took for the instruction writers so they would know.

If any one has a made up this pattern, it would give me so much pleasure to see what you've done. Please send me a message on the contact page and then I can tell you how to send me an image. Thanks!

45 Comments

The Goose

7/9/2013 03:51:39 am

I really like the one you made in the colors you made it in. Now that I've seen the one you made I'm more jazzed with the dress than I was before. I think seeing the striping in the fabric on the one you made made it look more "authentic." That doesn't show in the pattern envelope photo. Seeing how the wide bias is done was helpful too! Thanks. The Goose

Loren Dearborn link

7/9/2013 08:43:36 am

Very cool! I really like that it's got a pointed front and a v-neck, so much more flattering than the standard civil war high waist and jewel collar.

Val LaBore link

7/9/2013 01:01:33 pm

I remember everyone got really excited when this pattern came out because it was DIFFERENT! I bought it but haven't made it yet. I'll see if I can find anyone who has.
Val

Jennifer Rosbrugh link

7/9/2013 01:13:46 pm

I think it's awesome that you drafted a pattern from a fashion plate for a Big 4 company! (even if they do tweak it for modern ease) I remember hearing slack about the hem trim but knew immediately it was period as I have that full year of Godey's. I have not used my copy yet, but thank you so much for creating it!

Charlene Burrage

11/16/2013 09:19:33 pm

My daughter and I decided a couple of years ago that we wanted to make dresses to wear to the Remembrace Day parade in Gettysburg this year for the Civil War 150th (she's 16). When I saw your pattern, I absolutely fell in love with the red dress. We made 2 of that style, mine in red and hers in hunter green. We finished them this weekend and are so excited to wear them next weekend to the parade. We will also be wearing them to do old time photos. I was really excited to find your blog and to also see you based the pattern on an actual 1863 design. I can't thank you enough for such a wonderful experience.

Andrea

11/16/2013 10:33:28 pm

Thanks for the comment. I'd love to see a photo of you two. If you write me an email from my contact page, I will answer you with an address you can send photos.
Andrea

D. Casten

11/18/2013 06:19:42 pm

I am currently cutting out the pieces from the tissue to start making a muslin of the jacket so I can fit it to me. I can't tell from the pattern back what size to use to make the costume. I wear a 20w in normal clothing but the measurements on the pattern are pretty far fetched. SO, hope I can do this without ruining the pattern pieces. I'm not going to put either trim on the skirt since I'm not fond of either one. Just hoping I can get a skirt made at all! I've never done the kind of pleats this calls for in the back, and have never put a waist band on this way in my life. And right now I can't tell from the pattern shere the opening for the skirt is located and it is very confusing when the pattern says to tack the skirt to the bodice. How does one get into this outfit? I'm going to try to trace a copy of the pattern onto some other kind of paper so that I don't ruin the actual pattern trying to alter it to fit me.

Fortunately I have until January 18 to make one of these.

11/18/2013 10:06:14 pm

Dear Ms. Casten, I hope I can help.
First, trust the measurements on the back of the envelope. Pattern company sizing hasn't changed since the early 70s. I wear an 8 in the store and sew a size 14 pattern. If you plan to wear a corset, take your measurements while wearing the corset..
Please trim the dress anyway you like. I love it when people personalize their garments.
The skirt is designed to open in the front off to one side. That way the bodice can be tacked to the skirt at the back and sides.
Also, the skirt is cut in an unusual way because the pieces are so large. You are instructed to cut long panels of the fabric of a certain length, THEN the pattern piece is used to cut the pleat pattern at the top.
Please write with any other questions. I'm glad to help.

Leonie link

1/11/2014 12:50:22 am

Hi Andrea,

I love this design! I am currently working on the dress, but I must say all these technical terms in English are not easy to work with. And unfortunately simplicity does not take the time to translate the few instructions to Dutch (my mother language). I had big trouble getting the pleating right, and making it fit to my waist. Even after pleating it exactly to the instructions, I had a lot of fabric left over that I needed to lose before it would fit.
Now it is almost done, but I am having trouble fitting the top to the skirt. It seems like it pulls on the fabric no matter how I fasten it (on the boning of course).
Also the skirt came out all wrong in the sence of height, the back was too short and the front too long, even though I followed the instructions to the letter. And the top seems to wide, only at the front (I can pull it out and doesn't hug my figure). Maybe you could help me out with some of these problems? I would really want my dress to come out right since I spent so much money on fabric already.

Regards,

Leonie

Leonie

1/11/2014 12:52:13 am

Oh and I wondered how wide the hoop is that you used under the skirt?

Tammy Eliasen link

4/11/2014 04:20:12 am

I am from the beautiful State of Idaho. This past year we celebrated 150 years as a territory granted to us by President Lincoln. Of course we celebrated! Our group, We Wear History, was asked by the first lady of Idaho (Lori Otter) if we would come dressed in period for the state celebration on the capitol steps. OF COURSE, we said yes. I made my dress from your wonderful pattern. It was so easy to use and read that my dress went together beautifully. I did however trim it a lot differently but I really appreciated the straightforward design.

4/11/2014 06:08:27 am

I'd love to see it!! send me a message on my contact page and after I respond, you can email a photo there.

Robin James

5/30/2014 06:04:19 am

I am interested in what type of fabric did you use for this dress?

6/1/2014 10:46:44 am

For the brown dress, silk taffeta. For the beige dress a heavy cotton and then the art department changed the color on the computer after the photos were taken..

Fulvia

6/8/2014 07:12:44 am

Dear Andrea. I Love the skirt. But the front pleating is confusing. Where is the front center.? How many pleats are there on either side of the centre. How many pleats are on the right of the opening and how many pleats are there on the left of the opening? The pleat pattern instructions show two pleats from centre..... But the pattern does not show centre... Can you please assist. I can send you a photo. Regards Fulvia

6/10/2014 10:29:10 pm

It's been a while since I made this, but I can tell you the opening for the skirt is off center, not exactly center front. This is so the bodice can be tacked to the skirt at the back and sides and the dress can be put on and off in one piece. So, the front of the skirt is where the flat section that the pleats fold towards. Look at the photos in the blog.
hope that helps.

Val link

6/9/2014 03:14:26 am

Hi Andrea!
I have been asked to make this dress for a customer. Before giving a quote, I have been doing some research and stumbled on your page. I am positively enthralled!! Your work is quite impressive.

May I ask, how many work hours does it take to make either dress from the pattern?

Thanks so much for any help.
From a new fan,
Val

6/10/2014 10:32:14 pm

I can answer many questions, but ... I really can't give you an answer about time. Because while I made these dresses, I was also making the pattern.
I don't sew for individuals and don't have a good sense about the time it takes to make something, but you might be able to find someone on line who does.
Best of luck, Andrea

Jessica

9/6/2014 08:34:23 pm

I would like to know if a novice (never used a pattern) sewer would be able to successfully use this pattern.

9/7/2014 10:59:16 pm

As much as I would LOVE for you to use my pattern, I have to be honest and say it would not be a good pattern for a beginner. Perhaps you should try something simple like a modern skirt or pajamas to get used to using a pattern, then take a look at this pattern and see if if makes sense to you.
good luck.

Jerrianne Smith

3/27/2015 07:45:32 am

I just bought this today on Ebay! I have some beautiful black and white tiny checked pattern with a red "x" in the white squares. So, with the outfit being "attached" together at the sides and back, the buttons are really functioning buttons? That's how you get into it? Just like a "dress?" I am a Civil War reenactor in Southern California and can't wait to start this. I have never used a pattern for a skirt, because period correct skirts were simply made with 4 or 5 panels (44" or 45" fabric), knife pleated, and adding a waistband. I have made 4 skirts using only a written pattern and they come out beautifully. I think I can figure out the pleating pattern of this without getting confused by a pattern! Thank you for this website. It's so wonderful to see the outfit made up; my Easter week project is all ready to go! I will send an email and eventually a photo to you when it is done. Now the bug has bit me and I can't wait for April 5 to get started!!!

3/27/2015 10:07:37 pm

Someone else asked about the front opening as well and here is the answer I gave them.
It's been a while since I made this, but I can tell you the opening for the skirt is off center, not exactly center front. This is so the bodice can be tacked to the skirt at the back and sides and the dress can be put on and off in one piece. So, the front of the skirt is where the flat section that the pleats fold towards. Look at the photos in the blog.
hope that helps.
When you are finished, send me a message on my contact page and then I will give you an email to send photos. I really want to see this!
best, Andrea

Rebecca Grace link

10/20/2015 08:12:52 am

I am so in love with Pinterest for leading me to your blog! I just purchased your pattern for a "Dickensian" Christmas caroling outfit. I love how you cut the dress in a way that creates the illusion of a corseted bodice, because if I REALLY wore a corset I couldn't breathe/sing. I have a fitting question. I have a 38" DD cup bust, high chest measures 32" and all my other measurements fall under size 12. Normally I would make a size 12 pattern with a full/prominent bust adjustment so that I'm adding length and width only at the bust, and still getting a good fit through the upper chest and shoulders without messy alterations. But with no bust dart in this pattern, I'm not sure how to add width to the bust without impacting the shape of the armscye or changing the grain orientation at the side seam. I notice that Bodice Front Piece #9 is marked with 2" ease at the waistline but 4 1/2" ease near the bust, and I read the instructions for the breast pads... Do you think the extra design ease through the bust will accommodate a DD bust on a size 12 without a bust alteration if I skip the pads? If not, what would you recommend? Thanks in advance for any suggestions, and thank you for your beautiful pattern!

10/25/2015 10:52:12 am

Hard to advise you w/o seeing it and in just a short message, but that extra room allowed for the side bust pads just might be all you need. have you made a muslin mock up of the bodice?

11/1/2015 03:04:24 pm

Just made up the muslin for the bodice -- yippee! It fits! :-) Thank you!! I'm so excited!

Michelle

11/13/2015 04:41:26 pm

I really am having a hard time making this dress. I need to know how to put the top back and the back side together. for some reason it is not working out for me.

11/15/2015 09:00:47 am

That seam is slightly curved. The stitching line is in 5/8" of an inch from the cutting lines. The stitching line of each piece is the same length and will match up perfectly. BUT the cut edges are not the same length. The shorter cut edge (the center back piece) needs to be clipped into the stitching line to allow it to open up and then easily fit the side back piece. The best way to do this is to "stay stitch" close to the seam line (just inside it actually) then make clips about 2 inches apart almost to that stay stitching. Then the 2 piece should fit together without much trouble. If you are still having trouble, contact the consumer help people at Simplicity. The phone number is on the pattern tissue and guide sheets.

Melanie

11/17/2015 06:46:12 pm

I'm loving this pattern so far! I'm making a dress for Dicken's fair and it's coming out lovely. But I have to ask, I'm confused about steps 10-12, basically making the collar of the jacket. Do you have any tips, or is there a way you could explain what I'm supposed to do here more clearly?

11/18/2015 05:28:14 am

The collar of the jacket is really just part of the front piece that is then folded back on itself. There is a facing for the whole front edge that includes the facing for the turn back collar. There is no collar in the back. The chemisette (partial blouse) is worn under to create the white collar that goes all around the neck.

11/19/2015 12:40:55 am

Thanks! For some reason I was having trouble wrapping my head around the whole turning the collar inside out (or rightside out) and pushing the the back collar down. Almost done with the jacket now. :-)

Danielle

12/11/2015 07:58:39 pm

I have used this pattern so much and i love it. I also used this pattern to make the dress behind the two girls you used without modifying the pattern really. I love how versital this pattern is.

12/14/2015 10:11:22 am

Nice to hear, please send me some photos, if you have any to scheweandrea@yahoo.com

Joann

3/30/2016 04:20:48 pm

I'm running into trouble on the im going to call it a jacket. I'm more of a hands on sewer,I tought my self how to sew. The boning for it how to fit it all right because I'm to big compaired to the sizes so I have to figure out to make this work . do you have any advice on this.

4/12/2016 04:51:51 am

Joann,
Sorry to be answering so late, I've been away.
My advise to you is to make a mock up sample of the top (jacket) using muslin or even an old sheet. Have someone help you fit yourself and then transfer all the changes to the paper pattern. Even make a whole new paper pattern if necessary.
If you need to add a lot to the size of the pattern, it is best to split the pattern in the middle somewhere and spread the pieces out. Again, this may mean you need to make a new custom pattern piece.
Also, look for a class on altering pattern sizes for future projects.
good luck. Andrea

4/13/2016 05:40:00 am

I figured it out already. Thank you though,I normally up size my things but with this I wasn't sure because of the style as well as the pattern. Plus the instructions aren't always as easy as they claim. But I took a picture and there is no place to paste it to show my work

Katie

4/2/2016 05:18:34 pm

Hi i was wondering if there was any way i could attach the false sleeves to the bodice portion, this is an actual costume i am making to play mary todd lincoln and i need to know it i can attach them for quick changes

4/12/2016 04:57:42 am

Katie,
Why don't you use Velcro? or snaps?

Good luck with your performances, Andrea

Haley

9/23/2016 07:50:29 pm

My grandmother is trying to make the skirt and cannot figure out based off the instructions she has made plenty of skirts but cannot figure this out can you shed some light on how to make the pannels its showing 5 pannels but shes confused because it Doesnt appear to have five panels in the finished picture

tracey link

4/11/2017 11:34:18 am

Are all seam allowances 3/8"? which are 5/8"?

4/12/2017 07:15:16 am

The way Simplicity does it is ... all seam allowances are 5/8" unless noted otherwise.

Hope that helps. Andrea

Penny Cornelius

6/18/2017 07:35:32 pm

I made the other one on the of the dresses.

Vibeke

7/11/2017 09:07:28 pm

Hallo
Im a girl from Denmark. I have bought the pattern and have startet on the skirt. But i have restartet many times now!
I am so sad. This dress is so beatyfull and i cant make it, because i dont understand the pattern.
Does der eksiskt an ekplanasion for dummies?
Best Regards

7/12/2017 04:46:29 am

Vibeke,
I'm so sorry you are having trouble with this pattern. The people at Simplicity should be able to help you. There is an office just for Consumer Help. Email them at info@simplicity.com or even better if you could call, but I know you live in Europe ... but the number is in the US 888-588-2700
Hope this helps!
Andrea

Renee' Crosby link

8/9/2017 04:30:01 am

I adore what you have created! I had an opportunity to wear a two piece dress in Gettysburg on our trip there and got to wear it all day walking around town! I was in heaven! I have often said I was born in the wrong era, and was told that that particular dress was made for me!! Yet he couldn't sell it to me! I hated to take it off. Do you make them for people? And if so what price? It has been a dream of mine to have one and wear it possibly in a reenactment! You did a beautiful job!

8/30/2017 02:14:52 pm

Thank you!
So sorry, but I don't sew for people, but I bet you can find someone who can sew up this dress.
Best of luck, Andrea

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Civil War Day Dresses Pattern #1818

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