Corset for Beginners! New Pattern

Sometimes the simplest things take the longer to get right than you would think. Simplicity asked me to design an under bust corset ... AKA a waistcincher for the fashion section of the catalog.

​Cool!

There was talk of it being in the "Learn to Sew" line or the "Amazing Fit" line. Any pattern in the Learn to Sew line has to have a number of specific skills that will be learned. So, you see the list of things I proposed in the sketch above.

At the same time, we were discussing styling options. Some of my experiments here. This is always a struggle for me. Especially when a pattern is going in as a fashion pattern. The people at Simplicity have access to fashion trend reports that I don't. So, I often need guidance from them.

And, honestly, I do tend to lean towards the costumey look ... ; -)

They suggested that one view should zip up in the front. I thought that was a very nice idea. Especially since I didn't want to deal with a front closing busk in this pattern, because it is supposed to an easy corset.

So, I revised my original sketch here.

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They asked for a plaid corset which I have drawn here.  If you notice, at this point the plaid corset is the one with the zipper. But, the in the final pattern the denim corset gets the zipper.

Deciding to use a plaid fabric made me rethink the shape of the seams. All the sketches above have straight front seams that angle inward at the bottom. I like this look because I think it is flattering. BUT, plaids are much, much easier to match up if the seams curve in the same way, in the same place. So, I set out to make a very balanced and basic corset.

I love style tape. It can just be moved and moved and moved until the look is perfect. I wanted a graceful up and down curve at the bottom and a nice lift in the center of the bust.

Then I can fit on the muslin and start refining the pattern.

And start making samples ... to be continued.