Corset making - all the other stuff

While fabric and boning are the two most important materials needed to make a corset, a few other things are needed.

First the busk ... this is an illustration of several variations of the front closing busk, invented in 1848.  This made it possible for women to get in and out of a corset without completely unlacing it.  The lacings could be just loosened and then the corset could be unhooked.  Straight busks are easy to find but, again, to find something specific go to the suppliers I mentioned in yesterday's blog about fabric and bones, Farthingales and Richard the Thread.

The spoon busk, invented in 1879, allows for tighter lacing by controlling the abdomen.  Read all about it at Wikipedia. I always just use the regular straight busk.

Before the front closure busks, whale bone or wooden busks were used in the front of corsets for the very straight profile corsets had through the early 19th century.  Men would often make beautiful carved busks for their wives or sweethearts. 

There are a few places selling wooden busks on line. Etsy has a couple vendors who will custom make busks.  My friend Martha McCain suggested busks can be made from a wooden yardstick.  But, I imagine anyone handy with wood could make one without too much trouble. Maybe you could get some artist man to carve one for you!

On to grommets ... I used Dritz for a long time. You can buy them at most fabric store, but they only come in one size and two colors.  But, they work.  And if you are only going to be making a corset or two, the expense of the tools necessary for professional grommets isn't worth it.

But, once you make that step, you will NEVER want to go back!  They are smoother, come in a wide variety of colors and are much easier to set with the correct tools.

This is the kit I have, which includes a cutter. My favorite size is "OO" which is 3/16th of an inch, although I sometimes use "O" which is 1/4".  

Costume shops will often have one of these babies.  They make grommet setting even easier, but take up a lot of room and are even more expensive.  

But, metal eyelets weren't invented until 1828, so if you are making a corset from before that time, you COULD always hand make your eyelets!

There are great tutorials at The Renaissance Tailor and the Semptress blog.

Now, what should you put through those grommet or hand worked eyelets?  Well, the short answer is anything strong! as this photo from the M. Pardo blog shows.

If the corset is going to be worn under the clothes, so the lacings won't be seen, very long shoe laces are a very good choice.  These can be purchased the same place all other corset supplies are, also just look for "long shoe laces" on line. They come in a lot of colors.  Since the best way to tie a corset is to have loops come out from grommets at the waist, two long laces can be used, tying them at the top and bottom so the loop can be like this photo.

But, polyester ribbon is really strong.  And if you are lacing up a corset or bustier that will be worn as the main outer garment this is a good choice.  There is a huge choice of widths and colors.

OH! ... there is so much more to say.  I forgot all about boning tape and other stuff. Plus I haven't finished the history.  And we need to discuss fitting!!!


Looks like corset week is going to become corset WEEKS!


More on Monday.