Corset making - boning tape

Last Friday I ran out of time and forgot to mention a really important component part of corset making and that is the boning tape.  

First of all, Tudor corsets don't need bone casing ... there is so much boning that it is applied by slipping it into many, many rows of stitched channels made in a couple layers of strong fabric.  This photo is from Mo's Renaissance Dress Diaries.

Same holds true for 18th Century corsets.  This one from Bellflower Costuming.

If you are making a corset that will have a modern style lining, this would be more like a bustier actually, you can use Ridgeline, which is a plastic boning that can be stitched right into.  It is more durable than conventional plastic boning comes in two widths, 1/4" and 1/2" and can be slipped into a casing or channel, BUT if there is going to be a lining Ridgeline can just be stitched right to the corset interfacing or seams. This photo is from the blog Dress Diaries.

And here's a photo of me sewing some Ridgeline onto the interlining of a boned bodice that will be completely lined.

So, when is bone casing needed???

It's needed for corsets from the 19th Century until now. It's needed to hold boning in place (except Ridgeline that can be sewn through).  It most often is used when boning is placed along a seam, but can also be sewn to the interlining of a bodice (like I'm doing with the Ridgeline in the photo above) or when boning needs to cross over a seam.

Like this Edwardian corset being made a the Historical Sewing Blog.

Here is a beautiful and clear photo of corset in progress with the bone casing in place ready for the bones from House of Marmalade blog.

The most common store bought feather boning come with it's own casing.

This photo is from the Threads magazine website where there is a good article about using it and Ridgeline.  I often pull the boning out of this casing, sew the casing in place and then slip the boning back in.

Sometimes bias binding is used for bone casing, like on this corset from Bridges on the Body, a blog where the writer is sewing her way through all the corsets in Corsets and Crinolines (a Fabulous book!). I have to confess, I would worry my bones would poke through bias tape rather soon.

Twill tape can be a reasonable choice, if you don't have time to order away for one of the better choices.  It comes in different widths and isn't too hard to find.

They make a high quality tubular bone casing in 2 widths and in black and white.  Is is fairly easy to use, having a nice edge for stitching along, but it is a little thick.

This photo shows boning in this tubular tape but it is sold empty, without boning.

Or many consider the best choice to be Prussian tape (a finer, sturdier version of twill tape), nicely explained on this website Craziness and More! where this photo came from. depending on the width you buy it can be challenging to apply just right.  The particular scenario I'm thinking of is using 3/8" tape for 1/4" boning.  The tape as to be stitched on the very, very edge, perfectly, BUT this is the most beautiful looking bone tape.

So, where can these different tapes be purchased?? 

Farthingales carries tubular bone casing in 1/2" and 3/4" widths and Prussian tape in 3/8" wide, by the meter or in bulk.

Richard the Thread carries tubular bone casing in 1/2" and 3/4" AND Prussian tape in 3 widths, 3/8", 1/2" and 3/4" but only in 50 yard rolls.

Tutu.com carries Tubular bone casing in 1/2" width and Prussian tape in 3/8" and 1/2" by the yard.

And there always seems like more and more can be said about corsets.