Creating a lining for Simplicity Coat #1320

It's not hard to make a lining for any coat or jacket using the main pattern pieces. This is a good thing to know these days, too. Since many patterns don't have linings. 


There are some basic principles that you need to know, though. The main one being ... lining should NEVER fit tightly.

Here I have laid out the pieces I need for my lining.  

Because most lining fabric has no give in it at all and often a wool or twill weave will stretch a bit, I always sew my lining with 1/2" seams while the outside of the coat is sewn with 5/8" seam. This gives the lining that little bit of ease that is good to have.

This is the one tricky part. Figuring out how much to cut out of the back (and front for some coats) to allow for the facing.

Here is a series of photos showing how I did this.

These are the back and back facing pieces. At this point, I've cut out the complete back, even though I will be cutting away some of it for the facing.

Notice that the fold of the pattern is placed about 1 1/2" away from the fold of the fabric. All good lining patterns have a center back pleat to allow for movement and, again, that little extra that makes for a good fitting lining.

This pleat is wedge shaped. Meaning it starts from nothing at the hem and is 1 1/2" at the top.

I have marked the original fold line from the pattern, which is the proper center back of the coat. I will stitch along this line about 2 or 3 inches down from where the facing begins after I cut away the excess fabric.

To find the new cutting line to fit the facing into the back lining piece, first draw the stitching line on the facing piece. Use a ruler to mark 5/8" away from the cutting line. Note that the pattern is upside down. That is so it will be facing the same way as the actual coat back pattern.

Slide the facing pattern under the back coat pattern and trace the stitching line you just marked on the facing onto the back pattern.

Take your ruler again and mark a new cutting line 5/8" inside that stitching line just marked on the back pattern.

So now we have in red the cutting line for the LINING only and the stitching line in black.

To not damage the back pattern, use a tracing wheel and transfer paper to mark this line onto the lining fabric.

Here is the new cutting line, with the added pleat next to it.  I will be stitching where that pin is for about 3" after that top part is cut away.

Like this!

Now the little bit of stitching is done and I've pressed down the pleat. Tapering it to nothing at the bottom (Sorry I didn't get a better photo of that)

Stay stitch and clip this opening so ...

it can be opened up so the stitching line will lie flat when sewing it to the back facing.

Now, I will sew up all the lining pieces, facing pieces and the collar which makes a whole second coat, really.

I then sew the outside coat to the lining coat all up one front around the collar and down the other front leaving the bottom open.

A lot of clipping, trimming and grading of seams needs to be done. And then the coat should be turned right side out and pressed well.

Now I start to hand tack the lining to the coat in key places starting at the collar seam.  I line up the collar seam of the coat and the collar seam of the lining, matching up shoulder seams and notches and pin.

Then hand sew the seam allowances together making sure to not pull any of the hand sewing too tight. Keep the seam allowances open which allows the bulk of the seams to be evenly distributed.

Do the same with the sleeves, sewing the seam allowances at the armhole. This is the only place you DON'T want the seam allowance opened up. The seam allowance from the sleeve and the coat should be pressed outward.  It isn't possible to sew completely around the armhole. Sew as far down each side from the shoulder seam as possible.

Next, smooth out the front facing, which is in this case is the same pattern as the center front panel of the coat and pin it down.

Then those seam allowances can be tacked together.

The last thing to do are the hems, bottom and sleeves. Fold the hem of the lining 1/2" shorter than the coat hem. THEN push it up slightly and run a slip stitch so the stitching is a little bit up and under the fold of the lining. This allows for some more looseness in the lining. Really, you don't want your lining pulling in any way which will show from the outside of your coat.

Please let me know if any of this is confusing. I hope that this makes it possible for everyone to make a lining for any coat.