Designing commercial patterns - designs

A friend of mine suggested I talk about what it's like designing commercial sewing patterns. It's something I've been doing for so long I don't often think about the special considerations that go into making a set of garments or craft items. But, there are limitations and guidelines I have to follow.

One of the first questions people ask is "who comes up with the ideas, them or you?" And the answer is both. Betsy Burger, my design director is the best at keeping up with the latest trends and TV and movies that are popular.  But I, living outside New York City, am aware of some thinks she might not be.  I'd have to say though, lately, more come from her. But, that doesn't mean she designs them for me.  After I'm told what they are looking for, I then have to send in design sketches, which she then will critique and show others.  And I will make corrections, etc.  

The people in the pattern making  department want to see my sketches to be sure I'm not creating something that will have too many or too large pattern pieces.  They want to be sure, if there is more than one garment in the pattern, that most of the instructions will be good for for all the garments.

The maximum amount of paper that can fit into an envelope is 4 large sheets of pattern tissue, but then with only 3 guide sheets.  If the instructions are very complicated and 4 guide sheets are needed, then only 3 large sheets of pattern tissue can fit.  And remember, part of the instructions need to be for Spanish and French translations.

This is the pattern that came from that sketch above.

Here you can see the actual sample I made, since they had artwork on the envelope instead.

Here are sketches for a project that had gotten to the fabric and color choosing phase. Betsy sent me swatches of velour fabric she liked and I was trying to incorporate it into my two designs.

But, then the people up in New York decided they wanted one more view in this pattern.  They wanted a dragon! So, I had to design wings and figure out the best way to make and attach them without adding too large of a pattern piece or too many more instructions. 

Those sketches turned into this pattern.

And again, here are my samples that ended up as artwork on the envelope.

So, when designing something that will be turned into a commercial pattern these are the things I have to keep in mind all the time.
1. Are there too many or too large pattern pieces?
2. I make the sample size, but when the pattern is made into larger sizes will the pieces still fit on the 3 or 4 large pieces of tissue paper.
3. Am I making the construction too hard to be explained clearly on the guide sheet?
4. Will the fabrics chosen photograph well?
5. Whenever possible, I'm told to use fabrics and trims from chain fabric stores so most people can find similar fabrics.
6. Can the same pattern pieces be used for several garments?
7. To make a skirt or cape really full, I will make a piece that can be cut multiple times.
8. If it is a costume, will it be comfortable to wear?
9. If it is a costume, will it be flattering on most people?

And most importantly, is this a design that lots of people will want to make?

Everything I do has to be approved by the folks in Simplicity's design office.

And I never forget how lucky I am to have such a terrific job!


Tomorrow, I well tell you how is my handmade pattern transformed into a Simplicity pattern that fits into that little envelope.