Above is the back of the pink dress. Both the pink and green dress have pulled crinkly cumberbunds around the high waist line. And just the pink one has this bias cut roses.
If you read my blog about the dramatic Fantasy Dresses you will see I use same method for the collar for those dresses as I use for this cumberbund.
The other thing I want to show, is how I hemmed the silk chiffon skirt with the train.
AND, please note that you can see from this side view that the waistline placement of the skirt IS higher than the front. This is correct (read comments on yesterday's blog) ... If I were making this dress for myself, I might even exaggerate that feature more. If you do this, remember to add some height to the top part of the back skirt pieces so the skirt isn't too short in the back.
Now, back to hemming the silk chiffon. That middle skirt layer, the one with the train, is real, honest to goodness 100% silk and it is a PAIN to hem. I really didn't want machine stitching on it. And the sample I tried with machine stitching twisted all up anyway. Actually I did several samples before finding the method with worked best for me with this fabric. It's a good method and should work with many difficult fabrics.
First, machine stitch on the fold line of the hem.
Second, press the hem right along the stitching line.
Third hand fold the secondary fold to make a rolled hem and hand baste.
(this may seem like an unnecessary step, but it is easier to get an untwisted rolled hem in place when you are just sewing a large basting stitch than it is when you are doing a close together invisible slip stitch. Plus this basting goes quickly.
Then it is much easier to do the slip stitch hem if the fabric is taut. So I anchor one end of the hem after I've put in a few stitches under the presser foot of my sewing machine.
When the hem is finished and gently pressed, both the basting and stay stitching should be removed. Then press again to remove any shadow of the bastings.
Next time I will show you how to make the beige dress.