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Elsa's Coronation Dress - Cutting

5/12/2014

11 Comments

 
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Here is my version of Elsa's Coronation Dress.  I made it using the Child size of this basic costume dress pattern that comes in Child up through Plus sizes.  This will be a week long tutorial, the first three days for the dress and the last two for the cape and crown.
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The pattern for Child 3 - Girl 14 is #3725.
The pattern for Misses 6 - 22 is #3723.
And the Plus size is #2354 and it comes in 18W - 32W.
Each line is a separate link that will take you to Simplicity's site.

Even though it's a child size dress, everything I'm doing will work for any of the sizes.

To make this dress you will need: 
* Black fabric for the upper bodice and sleeves
* Teal fabric for the lower bodice and skirt
* Fusible interfacing for the lower bodice pieces and the collar
* Flexible braid for upper and lower edge of the lower bodice (about 1/2" wide)
* 3 or 4 different colors of broadcloth for skirt motifs
* Paper backed fusible webbing (Wonder Under or Heat'n'Bond)
* OH ... and a zipper!

Now as far a quantities of each, you can either over estimate using the back of the pattern envelope as a guide, which is what I did and now I have a bunch of extra fabric or, if you have time, the smart thing to do is make all the pattern changes and then do a trial layout before going shopping to figure out how much fabric and trims you actually need.
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The bodice gets the main change.  Both front and back need to be divided into upper and lower parts.  I am going to use the lap method. It is much easier when you have a curved shape and the join is going to be covered with trim anyway.

So, first, take the front and back bodice pieces.
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Trace out the size you need.  If you think there are going to be any fitting issues, fix them now.  Make a muslin of the bodice, if necessary and make whatever changes you made on your paper pattern.

I usually use poster paper when I make a pattern, but I bought some gift wrapping type white tissue at Target and it is pretty sturdy AND it is really easy to see through, so that is what I am using this time.
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Cut the pieces out and use a ruler to mark in the stitching lines ... 5/8" from the cut edge. Knowing where the seam lines are makes changing a pattern much, much easier.
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Now, draw a preliminary line for what will be the upper edge of the lower bodice.  It should start close to the bottom of the armhole curve up and over the breast area and end in a "Vee" in the center front.
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Try it on the person the dress is being made for.  It will be easier to properly line up, if you have copied the waist mark from the pattern.  I'm lucky, my model stands very still.


If this is being made for a grown woman, you should probably pin the bust dart when trying on this paper pattern.
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If you don't like the line you've drawn, change it! I moved my line up about 1/2". Again, this is very easy on a dress form ... but you really need to see the shape on the figure to know if it looks right, even if you can only get a sketchy mark when it is up against a human body.
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Finalize your lines ...
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and cut the pattern pieces into upper and lower sections along these lines.  And, I suggest, give each piece a name, so you don't mix them up or think they are a scrap of paper and  throw one out ... And you can only guess why I give you this warning.  Any mistake that can have been made, I've made at least once in my life!
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Now you need to add a 1" extension to the bottom of the front and back "upper bodice" pieces.  Tape on a strip of paper and then use a ruler to mark and then cut an extra 1" which will become your underlap when the upper and lower parts of the bodice are joined.
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Here they are finished.


The pattern pieces are now ready for cutting the fabric.
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This is what needs to be cut.

From the black fabric: collar, front upper bodice, back upper bodice and sleeves.
From the teal fabric: lower front bodice, lower back bodice and all the skirt pieces.
From the fusible interfacing: the collar, lower front bodice and lower back bodice.

Tomorrow I will put ALL the motifs on the front bodice and skirt.
Wednesday I will sew and finish the dress.
Thursday I will show you how to cut the cape and ...
Friday I will sew the cape and make the crown.
11 Comments
Nicola
10/1/2014 10:36:56 pm

thankyou oh thankyou oh THANKYOU!!!! you have just saved me hours and hours of trying to work out how to divide the bodice!!!! If you're ever in Paris, France look me up I DEFINITELY owe you!!!

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Patricia
11/10/2014 10:29:41 am

You are incredible!!! Thank you for breaking this down for me!

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Patricia Lawhorn
11/11/2014 09:56:05 am

Andrea, would you tell me where I can find the teal fabric that you used for this dress is from? I am on JoAnn's website but I don't see the teal satin with those small diamond shapes like yours. I really like it and want to get as close to what you made as possible. Thanks, Patricia

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Patricia
11/11/2014 09:21:58 pm

Oh ... you are not going to want to hear this, but that fabric came from the close out shelves at my local Joann's. When I made that dress back in the spring that was the only fabric I could find in the correct color. I actually wanted a dull satin with no embroidery on it. I know you won't find it on line, but if you have a store near by, you could try looking there.

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Patricia Lawhorn
11/19/2014 09:27:13 am

Hi Andrea, I received my simplicity pattern for the coronation dresses in the mail today. One thing that I realized is the Elsa Coronation dress does not flare or bubble as much as Anna's. I prefer the bigger skirt so, what I want to check with you about is:
1 if I mix the skirts to make the Elsa Coronation gown the se size as the Anna gown, will there be any issues with the motifs? Do you know if there will need to be more or a different spacing?
Thanks, Patricia

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Andrea
11/19/2014 09:55:27 pm

Mixing the skirts would be difficult because of the point in the front of the bodice. I assume you are talking about the Misses new licensed pattern, not the basic costume pattern featured on this blog post.
What I would suggest to make a fuller skirt would be to "cut and slash" the skirt patterns adding about 30% to 50% more fulness. The skirt would then need to be gathered to the bodice, instead of being sewn on flat. This would keep the correct slope for the center front bodice point. Then I think you would need a few more motifs. It would look too sparse otherwise.

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Patricia
11/19/2014 11:59:40 pm

Ok then I think what I'd like to do is stick with the simplicity pattern you used here (3725) and just use the motifs from your S0748. I'll do 13 as you did and use this tutorial as a guide because I really really like the skirt on this. The challenge I will encounter is drafting the black bodice. Everything about this dress scares me but I must attempt making it. My daughter loves it (and I do too). I may be in touch with you again as I work through this. Last question for now: what fabric stabilizer do you recommend using on the bodice? Wonder under or HeatnBond ? Did you only use stabilizer on the bodice portion or also on the skirt? I think I only saw you use it on the bodice but I want to be sure. I also emailed Jo Ann about the turquoise fleur taffeta. They want me to find the product code to search for it. I actually found it in brown at my local store so I need to go get that #. It's not likely I will get a hit on it so I do have a back up option :). Just trying to get as close to yours as possible!
Thanks,
Patricia

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Melissa
5/26/2015 12:42:20 pm

I'm so excited to attempt this dress for my niece's Halloween costume this year. I'm still quite a novice, that's why I'm starting early! I'll be using pattern#: 3725 for a 4 year old, however, I'm confused as to which dress we will be making; A, B, C, or D?

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Andrea
5/31/2015 05:55:56 am

Melissa, I did these tutorials before Simplicity made an actual pattern for this dress. You might want to use it instead. It is Simplicity # 1222. This link will take you to it. http://www.simplicity.com/p-12181-frozen-coronation-day-costumes-for-children.aspx
If you want to make the cape also, use the pattern for Anna's cape from Simplicity #1233 and make the upper shoulder cape a little shorter and the body of the cape longer... http://www.simplicity.com/p-11879-disneys-frozen-costume-for-children.aspx

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Melissa
5/31/2015 11:46:58 am

Thank you! I had come across those, but didn't see the point in buying the other pattern just for the cape. I guess it wouldn't hurt to have both patterns, since my niece informed me today she wants the other Elsa dress also. KIDS!

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Sue
9/17/2016 09:41:23 pm

This whole series is great. I am attempting the Elsa coronation day dress for Halloween for my daughter. I am using Simplicity 1222. But your tips on the motifs are great and have put my mind at ease in doing them. My biggest fear is that the fusible interfacing won't hold. I purchased wonder under, but am considering getting the heat n bond "red" too. I will definitely be testing them out to see which is better, so I won't have to see them all down too. Thanks again!

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    I am a commercial pattern maker who is now "sewing over 50"!
    I love to sew and hope to encourage others to come back to sewing.
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