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Elsa's Snow Queen - sewing with sheer fabrics

5/22/2014

9 Comments

 
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Elsa the Snow Queen finished with crown! 

Please read the two previous blogs if you missed them. #1 cutting and #2 snowflakes

I am going to show you step by step how I made this dress using my favorite sheer fabric techniques.
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But, first iron on the fusible interfacing to the lower bodice pieces and and then pin the net overlay fabric around each piece and machine baste in place.
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The next step is to lap the lower bodice pieces over the upper bodice pieces, so mark the lap line, which is 1" up from the bottom edge as indicated on the pattern you created.
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Pin the lower bodice pieces over the upper bodice pieces as marked and zig zag over the cut edge of each lower bodice piece.

Sew the darts, shoulder and side seams.  Make a french seam at the shoulder.  Read yesterday's blog if you don't know how.
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The neckline needs to be cut a bit lower than it is now.  To do this ...
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Try the bodice on and mark the new neck line.  Then fold and pin the bodice in half so it won't slip around and cut both sides can at the same time.
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One of my favorite edge finishes for sheer fabric is bias binding cut from the same fabric. 


Here is the basic method. For  finished 1/4" binding, cut bias 1 5/8" wide.  In theory it only needs to be 1 1/2" (6 times the finished width), but I like that extra 1/8" for a little wiggle room.

Press the bias in half.  It should now be just a teeny, tiny bit wider than three times the width of the finished bias, so a generous 3/4".  Sew the bias to the cut edge using a 1/4" seam allowance, then fold it around to the back and slip stitch the pressed fold of the bias tape in place.

But I am making a smaller bias edge, about 3/16", so I cut my bias 1 1/4", which becomes 5/8" when pressed in half.  Then I used a generous 1/8" seam allowance when sewing it on, making a delicate neck edge for a tiny Elsa.
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Very pretty.

Since the sheer sleeves are going to be sewn to a sheer armhole, I will set the sleeves in with french seams.  It will look better and since this fabric is a little scratchy it reminds me of my first ballet recital in Kindergarten, when I wore this white peasant blouse may mother made me with the scratchiest armholes of my life. All the mothers were given the fabric, so I can't blame her, but my strongest memory of the day was of itchy shoulders and armpits.

So that is another reason why I want to use a french seam.  All the pointy stiff fibers will be bent inward, not at the skin of the wearer.
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First sew the sleeves together with french seams and do two rows of easing stitches along the sleeve cap, one 1/4" from the edge and the other 5/8".
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The edge will be frayed and stringy.
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For the first stitching, pin the sleeve to the armhole WRONG SIDES TOGETHER, pull up easing threads and stitch 1/4" away from the edge.
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Trim it neatly to a little less than 1/4".
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Now turn it so the right sides are now facing one another and stitch the seam a second time  with a 3/8" seam allowance. Sewing with 1/4" for the first part of the seam and then 3/8" for the second will give you the standard 5/8" seam most patterns use.

This will make the sleeve look good on the inside and out.
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Assemble the skirt leaving the back seam open for now.  You can leave the right front seam open to just above the knee for a walking slit, if you want.  Gather and sew the skirt to the bodice.
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Before the trim can be applied, the cape has to be sewn on. Gather and pin the cape over the upper edge of the lower bodice starting at the pin going around to the back. Repeat for the other side.

OH YEAH ... this is where I had to fix the mistake from yesterday.  When assembling the cape, I sewed the back seam all the way up to the top.  Now I have to carefully pick it open down to the point where the zipper will stop.  The cape is not going to be sewn with the zipper, but it has to be able to open at its back seam so the dress can be taken on and off.

The front edge and the open part of the back seam of the cape need narrow double fold hems.  I just stitched these by machine.
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This is a photo of the back of the finished dress. See how the cape's back opening is hemmed and is separate from the zipper.
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When pinning the upper edge of the cape to the dress, be sure to have at the back edge of the cape 5/8" away from the center back seam to allow for the zipper.
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Zig zag the cape right over the cut edge of the lower bodice and trim any excess that is sticking above and pull out any gathering stitches. They aren't needed any more.
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Now the braid trim can be sewn along the upper and lower edges of the lower bodice which will cover all the stitching lines for the cape. Please note ... this photo shows the braid just lying on top, not actually sewn.  I'm not THAT sloppy!
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Leave the braid loose near the back seam for the zipper.  After it is set in, the braid should be folded band and hand sewn neatly.

Try the dress on and mark the skirt and sleeve hems.  Slip stitch around the walking slit in the skirt, if you left the front seam open for that.
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Double fold and slip stitch the sleeve hem. 
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And now I've decided to add some more glitter dots using the darker of my blue glitter glue. I put some on all the pieces made of sheer fabric.


DONE.


Tomorrow something for ME. I need a break from Frozen.  But all next week I will be making Anna's winter dress and cape.
9 Comments
Tarisa link
5/22/2014 06:11:55 am

Your work is so neat and clean!!! It's a pleasure to see all the lovely insides :) French seams are lots of fun to use.

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Jill link
5/23/2014 02:17:11 am

Wow! Your work (and blog) are amazon. I've just come across you by chance whilst searching the www for inspiration on making Elsa's costumes for my 6 year old. I've just made myself a basic template for her coronation cape, which wasn't too dissimilar from the pattern you used. (I've not been sewing for long, but I must be picking up basic techniques along the way).
I'll definitely be a frequent visitor to your lovely blog - it'll be my inspiration and support :0)
Jill

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Mary
5/24/2014 02:52:15 am

These posts may come in handy come fall--my granddaughter loves Frozen. She'll only be almost 2 by then, but I have some tiny dress patterns I can modify. Thanks for the inspiration.

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Sarah Strong
5/25/2014 11:45:13 pm

French seams are THE BEST for sheer fabrics and silks.
Also love that bias finish. If someone has a hard time sewing 1/8" from the edge of the fabric (some fabrics are less cooperative that way), you can plan a wider seam allowance at that stage, and trim it back to 1/8" after sewing.

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Karen link
10/22/2015 03:07:00 pm

I stumbled onto your tutorial while searching for solutions on saving my granddaughters Queen Elsas dress, It's a size to big so my daughter in law asked me to shorten the skirt and sleeves.
While working on it my wedding ring snagged a big hole in the fine tulle and no way could be repaired. I had no choice but to remove the upper portion, make a trip to the fabric store, trace a pattern and see a new one. Although I'm an experienced sewer I rarely work with such delicate fabric and anyone who has knows it isn't the easiest to do. For 2 days tried various ways to stitch it together without the seams looking like a mess.
Until..... tada, french seams!!! I have never had a reason to use this technique and thanks to you I can hold my head high and remain the best Grammy in the world. At least to my 3 year old lil "Queen Elsa"

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Andrea
10/25/2015 10:48:01 am

Thanks for the story ... glad it worked out.

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Celia link
3/8/2016 08:25:08 am

Thank you so much for the instructions. I am making a woman's dress out of silk organza and the bodice will be sheer. Your instructions for the neckline is what I will use to finish the sleeveless armholes. Wonderful photos and great instructions.

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PepprRN
7/31/2017 02:36:30 pm

I never considered inserting sleeves by using French seams before reading this post. I am so glad that I saw this because as messy as they can look using the traditional method on "people" clothes it's even worse when sewing for dolls. I tried this method on an Elsa dress for an 18" doll... and it is not only easy, (your tutorial was a piece of cake to follow) but all the seams are neat and even, and it looks fabulous!! I have always hated the look of a finished serged seam, and now I have an alternative! Thank you so much for sharing!!

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Brianna
3/6/2018 12:06:38 pm

thank you so much for this idea! This is beautiful

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    I am a commercial pattern maker who is now "sewing over 50"!
    I love to sew and hope to encourage others to come back to sewing.
    The water is fine!!

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