Figuring out my size ...

This is my April project. I'm keeping my New Year's resolution to make something for myself or a gift for someone els every month this year.

And this time, I'm not going to talk about any sewing technique, but want to share my thoughts on why it's hard for me to figure out the right size to make.

As I said on Friday, I used the fabric left over from making the corset from this pattern for these cropped length pants for myself. I just barely squeezed them out. There was just a small pile of scraps left after cutting.

And I don't know where it was purchased. Simplicity bought it for me, but I will ask.

I had to do all sorts of experimenting to figure out how to get them as long as I did.  I had to totally eliminate the pockets and front fly.  I think front flies just look lumpy when worn with a shirt pulled over. And it is tedious to make a proper fly with the underlap and everything else involved anyway.

This is an Amazing Fit pattern, so I did all the measuring suggested on the guide sheet and filled in the chart, which said I should cut the size 14 Curvy pattern. But from previous experience I know that the curvy variation on these pants patterns is for people who have very rounded posteriors and my backside is rather flat. Although I am wide on the sides (thigh area) which makes my hip measurement a little larger than it should be for the Average pattern. So it is better for me to cut the average pattern and make adjustments on the side seam.

And, before cutting anything, I also checked the finished garment measurements on the pattern pieces themselves and since this fabric has a little stretch to it and because I wanted these pants to fit close, I cut the size 12 average.

So, I sewed up the front with its yoke and the back with its yoke and the zipper set in so I could fit these pants by pinning the side seams to the outside as instructed in the guide sheet.

BUT, when I sewed the side seam up where I had marked them, the pants were just too big. If I were in a store trying on pants, I would go for a smaller size.

So, I pinned in the side seam again. Sorry didn't get a photo of me in the pants for the second fitting. But, this photo shows the changes I made. 

The pencil line closest to the cut edge is the original 1" seam allowance given for fitting. The little holes show where I machine stitched the side seam the first time and the other pencil line shows where I will be stitching the side seam for the second time.  That's almost a 1/2" which is 1" per leg and 2" around the hips. That's a lot coming off a size 12 when I really have measurements for a size 14.

You can see I have the side seam running right up through the yoke which make adjusting easier. 

Also, I folded the pants so both side seam are on top of each other so I can trim both sides the same.  It wasn't a perfect 1/2" I took in from waist to hem. The waist didn't need as much taken off.

One more try one before sewing on the waist facing and hem. I like the fit now. It is not too tight and I can sit easily.

Now I want to pontificate on some sizing psychology. 

First in Simplicity's defense, they would rather have people mad at them for a pattern being too large than too small. Too large can be fixed, but if something is too small, a project can be rendered unusable. And, they have no idea what fabric we are going to use to make up any one pattern and fabrics can change the fit of things a lot.

Now, for my size hang ups ...

I come from a family of all sisters with a mother who was very obsessed about her size, always a little larger than she wanted to be and always on a diet, eating artificial everything, it seemed. So, my sisters and I, too, have battled with our weight from time to time.

I've had a very hard time being honest about my own measurements.  I've lost some weight over the last four years and now have the exact measurements for a size 14. But, four years ago I really was a size 16, but couldn't admit that to myself and always made a size 14 which usually fit fine. This was great for my body ego. 

All I can figure is that it is common for many people to fudge their measurements and for that reason pattern companies give us a little extra to work with.

But, always be careful ... look at the finished garment measurement printed on the pattern before cutting.