Gift for Theresa - applying cording/piping

Today I said I would show you how I applied the cording around the lapels of the pajamas I'm making for my sister Theresa.

Read yesterday's blog to see how I got started.

Since these are pajamas, it's not tailoring.  But, some interfacing is needed for any kind of lapel so they lay well.  I've decided to use fusible tricot interfacing.  I'm feeling much braver about fusible interfacing ever since I found out about the "cool down" period when writing some blogs about interfacing.  Click these numbers to read my two blogs (#1 & #2) on fusible interfacing.

The collar needs to be made first.  And the first thing to do, after pressing on the interfacing is to apply the cording to the side of the collar with the interfacing.

The seam allowance for the collar is 5/8" but the seam allowance of the cording is 1/4", so to make sure I am getting the stitching line of the cording in exactly the right place, I sew with a seam gauge in one hand.

To lie flat around the curves the cording needs to be clipped.

Now, there are two schools of thought about sewing on the apposing side of a corded seam.  I would say most people do it with the piece that has the cording sewn to it on the top, so you can see the stitching line for the cording and there-by stitch just inside that stitching line so the first line of stitches won't show from the outside.  BUT, I've been told that you can actually get closer to the cord, if you have the fabric without the cord on top and just FEEL for the cord.

I recommend trying both ways to see what works best for you.

Everyone knows I'm a big advocate for grading seams, so I grade and clip the collar seam ...

turn and press.

Next, I apply cording to the lapel facing, the piece that has the interfacing. See how I am sewing with the seam gauge in my one hand.

After the shoulder seams are joined, I stay stitch the neck line, to stabilize it and so I can clip into the tight curve of the neckline so it can open up to accept the straight collar.

BUT, the neckline has stretched and isn't fitting the collar ... grrrrr.

Maybe I should have done what is recommend on the guide sheet, which is to stay stitch the collar edges before doing anything else.  Hmmmm

Well, stay stitching can be pulled up like gathering stitching to ease in the bias areas to make it fit again.  Yay!

So, I apply the collar, then the lapel facing over it, grade and clip the seam and press.

I'm happy with these lapels.  Since it is for Theresa, I need to sew it well.  She knows the difference.


Tomorrow, setting in sleeves.