Wednesday I introduced you to, Liz, the Pragmatic Costumer. Today, she is my special guest blogger with her perspective on costume making and many useful tips!
This from her website
"Costuming pragmatically doesn’t mean you’re limited to what you can scrounge up from the $2 bin at Goodwill or Rue21 (though they are two great places to look). Costuming pragmatically means utilizing all the resources you have available as far as you comfortably and financially can."
So take it away, Liz ...
Sewing has become a happy hobby, primarily historical costuming. Quite recently, I realized that many of my favorite sewing patterns were designed by one lovely lady: Andrea Schewe. I find myself serendipitously gravitating towards her patterns because they are so appealing and user-friendly. In the five years since I began, nearly every single costume I’ve made was fashioned from an Andrea Schewe pattern. Three patterns in particular have become sewing staples:
This from her website
"Costuming pragmatically doesn’t mean you’re limited to what you can scrounge up from the $2 bin at Goodwill or Rue21 (though they are two great places to look). Costuming pragmatically means utilizing all the resources you have available as far as you comfortably and financially can."
So take it away, Liz ...
Sewing has become a happy hobby, primarily historical costuming. Quite recently, I realized that many of my favorite sewing patterns were designed by one lovely lady: Andrea Schewe. I find myself serendipitously gravitating towards her patterns because they are so appealing and user-friendly. In the five years since I began, nearly every single costume I’ve made was fashioned from an Andrea Schewe pattern. Three patterns in particular have become sewing staples:
Simplicity 3723 – Easy to Sew, Multi-era Historical Costumes
This is far my favorite pattern to make! It is exceptionally economical: three eras (or more, if you get crafty) for the price of one? Yes, please! The pattern shapes are all simple and easy to alter for a perfect fit. The sleeve pattern is my favorite pattern piece ever! I often use it with other patterns.
 Simplicity 4923 – Man’s 18th Century Pirate Outfit |  |
Who knew Jack Sparrow was so fashionable? This “pirate” pattern is actually ideal for making a historically accurate man’s suit from 1680-1740! Andrea even put the shoulder seams diagonally across the shoulder blades like the antique originals. It’s the little things that make her patterns great. I made my very first costume from this pattern: a brown 1713 gentleman’s coat. As a bonus, my husband, Chris, looks very handsome in this pattern and has even worn it of his own free will in public!
 |  Simplicity 4156 – 1890s Walking Suit
(now, sadly, out of print, but well worth investing in!) |
Simplicity 4156 is the most classically “historical” of the bunch. I was able to find an affordable copy a year ago and now I can’t stop making it! It’s supremely handsome and really easy to change up and make your own by playing around with the collar and sleeves. The way it is constructed is pretty accurate for the era, too. Andrea’s research certainly shines through in this pattern!
Andrea Schewe’s patterns are the perfect combination of historical styling adapted for modern methods. Even the 1890s Walking Suit—which seems intimidating—provides beautiful results with only the most basic of techniques. With a little ingenuity, you can mix, match, and manipulate them to get even more out of your investment! I use a few simple tricks to make patterns more historical accurate:
Andrea Schewe’s patterns are the perfect combination of historical styling adapted for modern methods. Even the 1890s Walking Suit—which seems intimidating—provides beautiful results with only the most basic of techniques. With a little ingenuity, you can mix, match, and manipulate them to get even more out of your investment! I use a few simple tricks to make patterns more historical accurate:
Making mock-up adjustments to Simplicity 4156. Making a mock-up is extra work, but it lets you find and fix fit issues. In my case, a Full Bust Ajustment (FBA).
1. Basic Pattern Alterations for Fit
If you’ve ever made something straight from the envelope and were disappointed at how it looked, it was likely because of fit issues. Andrea’s patterns are wonderfully easy to alter to fit, especially 3723! New Mexico State University has a free online PDF you can download that details basic alterations to solve common fitting hang-ups (I have it saved to my desktop for quick access). There are also tons of books, videos, and classes available online and at your local craft shop!
If you’ve ever made something straight from the envelope and were disappointed at how it looked, it was likely because of fit issues. Andrea’s patterns are wonderfully easy to alter to fit, especially 3723! New Mexico State University has a free online PDF you can download that details basic alterations to solve common fitting hang-ups (I have it saved to my desktop for quick access). There are also tons of books, videos, and classes available online and at your local craft shop!
Silhouette Timeline of Fashions from 1750 to modern
2. Historical Adjustments
There are so many changes you can make to create a more historical pattern, but three really stand out: fabric choice, zippers, and undergarments. And Pinterest…er…RESEARCH! Research will help familiarize you with real clothes from the era so you’ll know what fabrics to pick and what shapes to aim for.
There are so many changes you can make to create a more historical pattern, but three really stand out: fabric choice, zippers, and undergarments. And Pinterest…er…RESEARCH! Research will help familiarize you with real clothes from the era so you’ll know what fabrics to pick and what shapes to aim for.
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Both of these versions of Simplicity 4156 are made from polyester I found at Walmart.
Fabric choice is probably my #1 trick for creating a more historically accurate look. To figure out what sort of fabric you need, think about how you are going to wear your dress (indoors/outdoors) and look at antique examples to familiarize yourself with colors and prints. Cotton is a great choice for everyday dresses and can be purchased inexpensively—an important factor since many historical dresses take 6 or more yards! I love shirting, Walmart quilting calicos, and second-hand sateen sheets. However, plain cottons aren’t suitable for fancy ballgowns or evening dresses. Natural fibers like silk and wool are wonderful choices if you can afford them. While our ancestors didn’t have access to polyester, if you are judicious with your fabric choice, there are some really nice poly fabrics that look like expensive silks, linens, and velvets for much less than the real deal. For best results, choose poly fabrics with luster rather than shine (if that makes any sense).
Fabric choice is probably my #1 trick for creating a more historically accurate look. To figure out what sort of fabric you need, think about how you are going to wear your dress (indoors/outdoors) and look at antique examples to familiarize yourself with colors and prints. Cotton is a great choice for everyday dresses and can be purchased inexpensively—an important factor since many historical dresses take 6 or more yards! I love shirting, Walmart quilting calicos, and second-hand sateen sheets. However, plain cottons aren’t suitable for fancy ballgowns or evening dresses. Natural fibers like silk and wool are wonderful choices if you can afford them. While our ancestors didn’t have access to polyester, if you are judicious with your fabric choice, there are some really nice poly fabrics that look like expensive silks, linens, and velvets for much less than the real deal. For best results, choose poly fabrics with luster rather than shine (if that makes any sense).
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For an 18th century version of Simplicity 3723, I covered the zipper with a snap-on panel of faux Watteau pleats. My 1850s calico dress has the the opening moved to the front and hooks and eyes instead of a zipper.
Zippers weren’t commonly worn until the 1930s, so making them unobtrusive or removing them altogether instantly improves your historical street cred! One option is to hide the zipper under a placket or trim. If you’re feeling particularly ambitious, remove the zipper entirely and use hooks and eyes or buttons to close your costume instead. I like to move my openings to the front so I can dress myself.
Zippers weren’t commonly worn until the 1930s, so making them unobtrusive or removing them altogether instantly improves your historical street cred! One option is to hide the zipper under a placket or trim. If you’re feeling particularly ambitious, remove the zipper entirely and use hooks and eyes or buttons to close your costume instead. I like to move my openings to the front so I can dress myself.
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The last historical biggie ties back in with fit: foundation garments. If you want to get the most out of a Victorian dress, wear a petticoat or two…or four! Want to blow the historical awesome meter through the roof? Wear an appropriate corset underneath! What undergarments you wear will change how the pattern fits your body, so if you plan to wear them, take your new shape into consideration during the all-important fitting portion of your projects.
Many thanks Liz!
If you like this, you will love her blog ... check it out.
Many thanks Liz!
If you like this, you will love her blog ... check it out.
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