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How it's REALLY done!

12/22/2015

4 Comments

 
Picture
I've talked before about the differences between factory, couture and theatrical sewing. 

This is the best video I've ever seen that shows how a fine professional costume is built. 

Look for the patterns pieces made of heavy craft paper with no seam allowances.

The stitching lines are drawn onto the inner most layer of the bodice, then the layers are hand basted together before assembly. There are probably 3 layers, the outer layer, a layer for padding so bones won't show through and the inner layer that has the bone tape with the bones sewn on. We used to lay the layers over a large cylinder when pinning them together so each piece would conform to the shape of the torso to prevent bubbling. Costumes like this are usually worn without a separate corset, unless the actor has to get undress on stage and it is necessary to see the period correct under garments.

When they are dressing the actress you can see the built in corset. It laces in the back, but then the lacing is covered by a back panel. And there are adjustable shoulder straps in the front under bodice that won't show when the dress is worn, but you can see them as the dress is being put on.

Also, notice the side seams of the bodice are serged and total exposed on the inside. This is to make the dress easy to alter.
Picture
I do believe this is the dress in the video. It was hard to find a still photo. But I think this is a production of Taming of the Shrew. It is produced by the Stratford Festival in Toronto and the costume was built in their shop.

See the way the pleating of the skirt is done on the dress form over all the petticoats. I used to do that when working in the professional shops. Or ... actually ... since I was an assistant draper at that time, the draper I worked for would pleat one side and then tell me to make the second side exactly the same ... which was REALLY hard some times. Those skirts have so much fabric in them. Watch how the skirt moves when the actress wears the dress at the end of the video.

​OH, I loved seeing this. Theater costumes are amazing to me. The people who make them are SO skilled!!!
4 Comments
Caroline
12/23/2015 08:41:27 am

Great video link. But the Stratford Festival is in Stratford :)

Reply
Andrea
12/23/2015 09:50:08 am

near Toronto??? I think their business offices must be in Toronto. Can't think why I said that ... sigh ... a lot on my mind just now

Reply
Debora McFearin
12/23/2015 12:13:43 pm

So professional and beautiful outcome, thank you for posting.

Reply
Kathy
2/23/2016 12:15:09 pm

Thank you for the comments about what you appreciated in the video, and what we should look for. I don't want to make costumes, but I think it is important to see how the pros do it.

I also think we should be making our clothing in some ways like they do -- example: the side seams easily alterable. Men's tailoring is also done in a way making it easier to alter (waist and hip area, for example -- it is mainly the order in which the garment is put together). For women, you often have to take the garment completely apart to properly and smoothly alter it. Not only does this inhibit my alteration of some things, it means a tailor that I take a RTW to for alteration can't do it correctly without charging more than the garment is worth unless it is couture.

The video is fascinating, and I appreciate you posting it.

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    From Andrea 

    I am a commercial pattern maker who is now "sewing over 50"!
    I love to sew and hope to encourage others to come back to sewing.
    The water is fine!!

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