Inside a modern boned bodice

Two of the gowns I'm making for the fundraising fashion show that is now in exactly 2 days ... gasp ... have strapless boned bodices.  So, since I've been blogging about interfacing and such, I thought I would show you what I put inside these bodices.

When finished the bodices will have 4 layers, the fashion fabric, cotton flannel for padding, poplin to sew the boning to and a lining to make it look pretty inside and be comfortable to wear.  

To preshrink everything, I have washed and tumble dried the flannel and poplin.  The fashion fabric and lining are 100% silk, so I have steamed them thoroughly with an industrial iron.

I'm not exactly sure what's going to happen to these dresses.  I think they will probably be sold to raise more money, so I want everything I'm making to be easy to alter. This is why I decided to sew boning onto the center of each panel of the bodice instead of placing the boning on the seams.  I used Ridgeline which doesn't require any casing, can be sewn right into and is very thin but strong.  I've covered the cut ends of each piece with some cut muslin to keep it from poking through.

If a tight fitting bodice has more than 2 layers of fabric sew as a unit, I like to smooth all the layers of fabric over a large cylinder to simulate the curve of the body to prevent puckering.  After looking all over my house, I thought a standard paint can with some muslin wrapped around it was the best thing I had that I think most of you will have too.

I put the support fabric with the boning on the bottom.  The boning should face down so it will be toward the body.  The idea is to have it as smooth looking on the outside as possible.  Then the flannel for padding and the silk taffeta last.  Not all fashion fabric needs a layer of flannel, but this taffeta is so delicate and thin I felt it really did.

Smooth all three layers over the paint can and pin all around.

If you've done it right it will look bubbly when it is lying flat.

Sew all around each piece just inside the seam line. I like to sew with the stiffest fabric on top. Pull the pins just as they reach the presser foot. Then assemble the bodice.

Grade as many seams as possible to reduce bulk. 

Below is a blurry photo of the bodice unlined with the skirt attached.

After fitting and taking all the necessary alterations I put in the zipper, being careful to match up the waist seam in the back.

Then sew together the lining being sure to make the same adjustments as were needed in the main bodice. The lining is sitting there ready to go in, but it's kind of hard to see being black.

Sew the lining to the bodice along the upper edge. Again grade all seams possible to reduce bulk and I under stitched the lining to help it stay inside the bodice better.

Then fold, pin and slip stitch the back and bottom edges by hand.

And here is the inside, all finished with hanging loops.

I still have my knee length sheath dress to finish and a wedding dress ... gotta go!