Interfacing choice can make something look professionally made or like "loving hands at home" (the phrase thrown around the professional costume shops I used to work in)
And, it can be hard to choose. To start off, I have three things to say on the topic ...
1. You get what you pay for.
2. It doesn't have to be called interfacing to be interfacing.
3. For success - all fabrics (inside and out) have to be pre-shrunk.
OH ... and one more thing ... while you should certainly read the back of the envelope to see what kind of interfacing is recommended, the pattern company doesn't know what fabric you are using. So, you may decide a different kind of interfacing is a better match for your fabric than the one listed. AND ... sometimes you might want to use more than one kind of interfacing on a garment ... perhaps something stiffer for the collar than down the front, for example.
This is why it's good to save bits and pieces of interfacing, you never know when a tiny piece will come in handy.
And, it can be hard to choose. To start off, I have three things to say on the topic ...
1. You get what you pay for.
2. It doesn't have to be called interfacing to be interfacing.
3. For success - all fabrics (inside and out) have to be pre-shrunk.
OH ... and one more thing ... while you should certainly read the back of the envelope to see what kind of interfacing is recommended, the pattern company doesn't know what fabric you are using. So, you may decide a different kind of interfacing is a better match for your fabric than the one listed. AND ... sometimes you might want to use more than one kind of interfacing on a garment ... perhaps something stiffer for the collar than down the front, for example.
This is why it's good to save bits and pieces of interfacing, you never know when a tiny piece will come in handy.
My two drawers of interfacings
So, to write this I have been looking at many websites to see what others have written and HEY, if I can find a really good tutorial no point in reinventing the wheel, right?
I think the thing that is most confusing is the fusible vs. sewn-in issue. When I was learning to sew (when I was a little bitty girl) in the 1960's, fusible wasn't an option. We used pre-washed cotton or linen and sometimes a non-woven like Pellon. But, Pellon wasn't even available until about that time. hmmmmm ... wondering ....
I just found this history of Pellon on line.
In the 1930s, Dr. Carl Nottebohm, a Freudenberg researcher in Weinheim, Germany, was developing new backing materials when he discovered a method of manufacturing textiles directly from fibers – creating non-woven textiles.To describe the new technology, the name Pellon® was created. ‘PEL‘ was taken from ‘pelos’, the Spanish word for hair since interfacing was primarily made from hair canvas. ‘LON’ comes from nylon, the first synthetic fiber and a key component in the new fabrics. In 1950, Pellon® interfacings were introduced in the United States. The new materials were resilient, lightweight and lint free and they forever changed the textile and apparel industry. Soon after its introduction, the name Pellon® was synonymous with non-woven fabrics.
I think the thing that is most confusing is the fusible vs. sewn-in issue. When I was learning to sew (when I was a little bitty girl) in the 1960's, fusible wasn't an option. We used pre-washed cotton or linen and sometimes a non-woven like Pellon. But, Pellon wasn't even available until about that time. hmmmmm ... wondering ....
I just found this history of Pellon on line.
In the 1930s, Dr. Carl Nottebohm, a Freudenberg researcher in Weinheim, Germany, was developing new backing materials when he discovered a method of manufacturing textiles directly from fibers – creating non-woven textiles.To describe the new technology, the name Pellon® was created. ‘PEL‘ was taken from ‘pelos’, the Spanish word for hair since interfacing was primarily made from hair canvas. ‘LON’ comes from nylon, the first synthetic fiber and a key component in the new fabrics. In 1950, Pellon® interfacings were introduced in the United States. The new materials were resilient, lightweight and lint free and they forever changed the textile and apparel industry. Soon after its introduction, the name Pellon® was synonymous with non-woven fabrics.
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Fusibles were just starting to be used for factory made suits in the 1960's as these adds from a professional tailoring magazine show. So "Madmen!" And what IS that guy doing with that tape measure anyway??
So this started me off on a quest to find out when fusibles really really did start being used by home sewers. And there is NOTHING on line. So I looked in my assortment of sewing books. I have at least one book from each decade of the 20th century.
So this started me off on a quest to find out when fusibles really really did start being used by home sewers. And there is NOTHING on line. So I looked in my assortment of sewing books. I have at least one book from each decade of the 20th century.
My 1965 edition of Simplicity's sewing book
My 1958 edition of Simplicity's sewing book
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This is where I found the first mention of "press-on" (aka fusible) interfacing.
This makes sense to me since I started sewing in about 1964 and don't remember my mother using fusible at that time. 
This book has a smaller section on interfacing and no mention of fusibles.
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First ... off topic ... I just want to point out that the models on the covers of both these books have really nice painted, long fingernails. REALLY! Are we expected to think these ladies actually sew?? One of the reasons, I'm told, I was hired at AmToy (my first serious job) was because I had really bad fingernails and Elaine Heigl (my boss) could tell I was a hard worker.
Anyway, back to the sewing books.
Since I had all my books out, I thought I would look at some of the older ones and I was surprised.
Anyway, back to the sewing books.
Since I had all my books out, I thought I would look at some of the older ones and I was surprised.
A Simplicity book from the 40s, in front, and the 30s, in back
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These books and all the older ones I own, published by Singer, Butterick, etc. don't talk about interfacing at all except for tailoring.
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So??? People didn't use interfacing for their shirt collars, or neck facings or those giant bows that were often worn at just below the neck on many dresses in the 30s?? How did those bows stay so perky?
I first pulled out a bunch of patterns I have from the 30s and 40s and ... yep ... no mention of interfacing, not on the materials list on the back of the envelope, or on the cutting diagrams or in the instructions. This just seemed to strange and unbelievable to me.
So then I called the expert on all things 1930s and there abouts, my sister Theresa LaQuey, who will be blogging soon. And when she does, I hope she will write on this topic.
But, she came up with the same explanation I was thinking of. Which is, it is very likely people just knew to use interfacing. Or you had a grandmother or a neighbor who could advise you.
I believe interfacing is really important and will follow up this posting with a few more talking about actually using interfacing. But, how interesting this is!
So then I called the expert on all things 1930s and there abouts, my sister Theresa LaQuey, who will be blogging soon. And when she does, I hope she will write on this topic.
But, she came up with the same explanation I was thinking of. Which is, it is very likely people just knew to use interfacing. Or you had a grandmother or a neighbor who could advise you.
I believe interfacing is really important and will follow up this posting with a few more talking about actually using interfacing. But, how interesting this is!
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