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Interfacings - part 2 - fusibles

9/24/2013

8 Comments

 
Last time I talked about the evolution of the use of interfacing in the 20th century by home sewers.  Today, I will talk about how my experiences and opinions of fusible interfacing.

But, I want to repeat my three basic guidelines:
1. You get what you pay for.
2. It doesn't have to be called interfacing to be interfacing.

3. For success - all fabrics (inside and out) have to be pre-shrunk ... even fusibles


So how do you pre-shrink a fusible?? just wet it and hang it up to dry like this ...
Picture
I use fusible a lot when I'm in a hurry, but shy away from it for something "good".  I'm probably not the best person to be talking about fusibles, because I have had my share of bad results. The usual problem is bubbling.  I can't seem to get it all fused equally. And even if I do, after washing it will start to come lose in places. Another problem is getting the iron too hot and then things melt!!

So, trying to actually be helpful to everyone, I've explored what information is available on line and found a couple very useful discussions.  This one at The Savvy Sewer gives lots of good advice particularly about fusible interfacing. And this interview at Gertie's New Blog for Better Sewing is with a woman pushing her brand of fusible interfacing, but it sounds like good interfacing.  I should give it a try.  As I said above ... I do believe you get what you pay for.  

When I use a fusible nine times out of ten I use it on an facing, so if it does bubble no one will know. Also, if I am going to use a fusible I tend to use it on smaller pieces.  The riskier or most challenging place to use a fusible is on a large piece, like the front of a tailored jacket or bodice of a very fitted gown.  It is just so tricky to get the iron to the correct temperature and to move a home iron from section to section so that it fuses equally.  I imagine some people are able to do this. The advice, of course, is test, test, test.  And I know the correct iron technique is to move the iron like this ...

Picture
I have to say, sometimes a fusible interfacing will give a support and stiffness that can't be achieved with a sewn in interfacing.  So here is a "safe" way to use fusible interfacing. Interline your garment and then apply the fusible interfacing to the interlining instead of to the main/fashion fabric.

Interlining is just another name for flat lining which is just sewing a second layer of fabric along with your main fabric as if they were one like this ... 
Picture
But then it starts to turn into sewn in interfacing when done like that ... sigh ...

REALLY, if you want to use fusible interfacing, check out the two links I've provided above.  They give you the tips and advice that should help you have success.

Next interfacing installment I will talk about all the different fabrics that can be used for sewn in  interfacing and when and where to use them.
8 Comments
Ginger
9/24/2013 01:38:28 pm

Try some of Fashion Sewing Supplies interfacing. I resisted for years and finally tried it. No more bubbling. It really is better than what you buy at the chain stores. I'm not affiliated just a happy customer.

Reply
Sarah Strong
9/24/2013 10:54:32 pm

When you flatline something like a bodice that will go around the body, you have to start taking into account the turn of the cloth at the seam lines, and the curve that each bodice piece needs to take to go around... which is one reason why fusing a big sheet of interfacing flat to a big bodice piece can be problematic. Two layers going around a curve, end up needing to be slightly different widths.

Reply
Andrea Schewe
9/25/2013 02:32:59 am

I will.

Reply
Sheila Lenkman link
9/25/2013 01:35:04 pm

Love your blog Andrea! Looking forward to meeting you in person at Midwest Costume Academy in March. Ironically, this very subject of fusibles is the subject of one of the classes I teach. I was trained by a theatrical tailor and we use them a lot. Getting the fabric hot enough for the glue to melt properly is part of the process, but it is the second part of the process that most people skip: the cooldown. The fabric has to bond with the glue and that happens when the steam is turned off and the hot iron evaporates the moisture. Then the project must cool on the ironing surface without being moved. The bubbles form during the cooling process if it is not done properly.

Reply
JC link
9/26/2013 11:55:23 pm

Greetings! Just found Andrea's site/blog through an ASG member. :-0. to Sheila L, when you say some miss the cool down part/process in using fusible interfacing (never used so I'm learning), is there a general time as to how long one should let the interfacing cool before moving on? Or does it depend on the garment and/or what you're using it on? VERY interesting topic. Thank you. -JC

Andrea
9/27/2013 08:37:22 am

You are right Sheila, I don't know about the cool down. Tell us more!

Sheila Lenkman link
9/30/2013 01:11:32 pm

Hmm, let's see...The best way to think of it is to realize that when you press with a steam iron, you are getting your fabric damp. The water helps relax the fibers. But, glue doesn't stick to damp fabrics. So, the first step is to preshrink your body fabric and your fusible. Choose a fusible that has an even application of glue and a stable base fabric (we use a cotton woven fusible for most applications). Preshrink it by either wetting it, or, even better, steaming it. Cut a loose, slightly bigger shape of your pattern piece out of the fusible. Place it on the back side of your body piece and tack it with the iron in a few spots, making sure it is smooth. Then flip it and really heat and steam it, working from your body side. This will relax the fibers and melt the glue. If your fabric will scorch, use a press cloth. Then, turn off your steam and heat that piece until you can barely stand to touch it. The next step is to ignore it until it is cool to the touch, DO NOT LIFT IT until it is cool. Trim the excess fusible and go back and heat the edges if you could not get close to them.

Reply
MaryD
4/12/2014 08:29:18 am

I concur with 'you get what you pay for'. Once I stopped using what I could buy in Joann's et al, and started getting fusibles from folks like Palmer/PLetsch and Connie Crawford, I found I no longer got the bubbling. In addition to the comments above, I think it has to do with how far apart the glue dots are--closer together=less bubbling.

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    I am a commercial pattern maker who is now "sewing over 50"!
    I love to sew and hope to encourage others to come back to sewing.
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