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Invisible zippers

1/31/2014

2 Comments

 
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Do you remember the first time you saw an invisible zipper?  I surely do.  I first heard about them though.  Is was rumored that there was a zipper that just looked like a seam.  You couldn't tell there was a zipper at all.  And, it was true.  

I think I was 16 or 17 and a pretty good seamstress by then.  I remember looking and looking and not being able to see any sign of a zipper.

The zipper above (white dots on blue) is really well done. You can see it is a red zipper because of the zipper pull at the top, but you can't see a trace of the zipper in the seam. Go to the blog Behind the Hedgerow to see the original image and read the post that goes with it.
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The flower print above is the best example I've ever seen using the print as camouflage! Look inside the blue rectangle!  That's the zipper.  I pulled this off of the blog Peggy's Closet.  I recommend a visit to that page.
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NOW, if you don't do a good job putting in an invisible zipper, it will look like this! ... not so invisible.

I tried to find out some history about the invisible zipper without any success really.  It was introduced to the home sewing market around 1968 and used by the sewing industry as early as the 40s (I think).  Please if anyone knows better leave comments!
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Setting in an invisible zipper is really easier than a conventional zipper as long as you have the right kind of foot for your sewing machine.  The universal plastic ones really do an OK job.  I've used them many times.

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But, if you can get a sturdy metal invisible zipper foot that is designed specifically for your sewing machine ... that makes things even easier.

As
Carolyn in her blog Allspice Abound tells about.

An invisible zipper should be installed before the seam it is to go is has been sewn at all.  Below is a good basic diagram showing how it's done.
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But, this webpage has, by far, the best and most complete information I've found on line about the invisible zipper with a very good tutorial. Boyd - Walker project
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A great example of an invisible zipper in the back of a special occasion dress. So much nicer than all that top stitching, flaps and zipper teeth peeking out.
I, also, really like the Tutorial by Gertie on the Coats and Clarks website. It is easy to understand.
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Another really well set in invisible zipper.
So, my last bit of advice on this subject.  Coats and Clark make a very good zipper and it is the one that is most readily available at all the major fabric stores. I use that brand all the time.

BUT, if you are putting a zipper into a dress where it will be under some stress, such as the blue evening dress above, get a YKK brand zipper. These can be purchased in load of different colors at WAWAK.

When I made my daughter-in-law's wedding dress a few years back, I asked my sister, Theresa LaQuey, for zipper advice.  Theresa does many, many brides every year and she recommended the YKK zipper for reliability in a close fitting garment.

So, if you've never used an invisible zipper ... give it a try.  I think you will like them.
2 Comments
Sarah Strong
1/31/2014 10:38:03 pm

I love invisible zippers, too. I have a Viking, though, so the little set of plastic presser feet... didn't really have anything that worked for me, as well as my buttonhole foot. It has the two little deep channels on either side of the needle, and I can also step the needle to one side or the other a tiny bit to get the stitching in just the right place.

Reply
Linda Pirozzi
10/4/2017 04:50:06 pm

I have been putting in Invisible zippers in for years, but could not remember exactly, probably since 1965ish....
The brand of Zipper was Unique and a zipper foot that was sturdy, plastic, and had different shank heights, was sold separately. I have had it for years and that is the only type of zippers I put in. My foot split in half!!! and could not find anything but the Coats and Clark at the local fabric store. I purchased it and it was so flimsy , plastic, it fell apart before I could use it.
I started searching on line for something that would fit my machine, Pfaff 1970, mine does not have snap on feet. I finally found a new, to me , brand YKK Unique, at "Nancy's Notions" just received it and it is hard plastic and sturdy. I bought 3! Love it.

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    I am a commercial pattern maker who is now "sewing over 50"!
    I love to sew and hope to encourage others to come back to sewing.
    The water is fine!!

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