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Marietta Greene - Guest Blogger ... a costume from her stash - part 2

11/26/2014

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Last we met I was just at the beginning of making my (stashbusting) Snow White  Halloween costume using Simplicity 1773.

As usual – plans changed and the timeline to make said costume became incredibly shorter than originally planned. I somehow thought that I could knock out a full costume in under a week…in the evenings only…after a full day of work…where I sew for 8 hours. Yeah…..right….

The cutting out the pieces took longer than planned – I really didn’t read the whole pattern as I usually do and I wasn’t aware of how involved and detailed the pattern was. (I should have known better)



From Andrea ... here we go into Marietta's mind. She comes up with clever ways to make the materials she has on hand work. AND what to do about problems that arise while working on a project.  These are the skills acquired while making lots of theater costumes under tight deadlines!  Brava, Marietta.


Below was her original plan.
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Lots of little pieces. The overdress sleeve specifically. But Brilliant!!! I love that it truly is a sleeve that has been slashed and not just strips of cloth. Clever construction! 
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Instead of gathering – I pleated the center 3 strips. Being low on time (and supplies), I whipstitched the sleeves to the bodice instead of snaps. Part of me wishes I had used a heavier interfacing or even buckram for the strips – but the other part of me likes the softness of the strips…..jury is still out. I am also considering tying the sleeves on for a future over dress.

My other “low on supplies” issue was not having enough of one fabric for the skirt. And even those two weren’t enough, so I had to add godets to fill the void.

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On to the bodice – this is where I became forgetful. I forgot to add the boning and I took a few shot cuts. Should have flatlined or underlined the bodice – but lack of time was making me forgetful. I also constructed the bodice like I do corsets and period bodices. Click here for a good description of this method.
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So I made up some bias, stitched it to the lining, and made what little boning I had work.

I also changed the center front a bit too – This is where I spent a bit of money (less than $5) and went to the jewelry findings dept. at JoAnn’s for some beads that I could use for “grommets” instead of using the ribbon loops. Could have used boning at center front, but not 100% necessary.  


From Andrea ... Hmmm, I think boning at the front matters if you are using lacing. 

I did not add the studs called for in the pattern – Had I gone with a plainer fabric, I think it would have been needed.
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The underdress was almost perfect – I forgot to make a simple adjustment to the pattern to accommodate my very pear-shaped body. Typically I cut a pattern from shoulders down like so:

size 14/16 at shoulders

size 16/18 at bust (with a 16 sleeve)

size 18/20 at waist

size 22 and beyond at hip.

I forgot the 14/16 at shoulders and ended up with some serious gap-age at the neckline.

I also did not want to add a zipper so I could use the underdress for other costuming events where that might matter…… And this is where the “almost” comes into play.

Time caught up with me and I was not able to resolve the neckline or closure issue in time for the big event. It didn’t help that it was POURING RAIN!!!!! Soooooo she did not make her debut – but I live in Portland now, so I am sure there will event where I can wear her.


Please get a photo when you do wear it. I and I bet many others will want to see you in it.

And thanks, Marietta, for writing this!

Andrea


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    From Andrea 

    I am a commercial pattern maker who is now "sewing over 50"!
    I love to sew and hope to encourage others to come back to sewing.
    The water is fine!!

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