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Martha McCain - Guest Blogger                    The Road to Extreme Research #3

8/27/2013

4 Comments

 
Museums and Some Things I Have Learned Therein
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Hi.  Martha McCain again.  As I mentioned the last time I visited Andrea’s blog, seeing clothing artfully mounted in a museum setting is wonderful.  What’s not to love? Probably only Extreme Researchers want to turn that beautiful garment inside out to find out how it was made.
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When I designed a Civil War ball dress for Simplicity, I had a lot of questions about how these fluffy confections were really put together. Luckily, the Costume Institute and The Museum of the City of New York let me peep inside theirs.

For example, I wanted to know all about the collar piece called a “bertha.”
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I looked at lots and lots of berthas and, of course, there was variation.  The typical bertha was made by hand. It was mounted on a stiff net base with a center front and/or shoulder seam. All the edges were finished. It was sewn to the outside of the neckline of the bodice with a rather long running stitch. It opened in the center back and this was closed with hooks and loops. The tucker was totally separate and sewn to the inside of the bodice neck.
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I designed a sheer day dress for Simplicity.  My main question about this style was - What are we seeing underneath  Is that a corset cover showing through the bodice or is it lined somehow?  Again, the Costume Institute came to my rescue.
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Looking inside this lovely dress, I discovered there was a built-in underbodice with little cap sleeves and delicate lace trim.
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I could go on forever about the details I’ve discovered by looking at original garments. However, next time I visit Andrea’s blog, I’ll talk about Extreme Research at the library.

4 Comments
Ann Wass
8/26/2013 07:26:37 pm

There is nothing like looking at the real thing, if you can. Thanks, Martha, for your great pictures.
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thegoosemother
8/27/2013 04:09:31 am

WOW! All I can say is, thank goodness for pattern designers, otherwise I cannot imagine what MY wardrobe would look like!! (sacks with holes cut out for neck and arms - lol). Very interesting, Martha. Thank you. the goose

Reply
Millie Chapala
8/27/2013 09:29:45 am

So interesting! I had no idea those garments were so involved. Thanks so much for the information.

Reply
Kat Stelzer
11/3/2013 08:02:32 am

Hello! So wonderful to see all the research that goes into your designs! I am new to sewing 1860s, so these details are great to see.

I'm not sure if this is ok. I hope it is! I'm making the skirt from your Simplicity 4510 and I'm having trouble understanding where to place the pleating guide on the side and back pieces. The directions say to "match centers back" but since those large rectangles didn't come with a pattern piece, there's no indication where the "center back" is. The drawing seems to indicate it's somewhere towards the side of the panel, but I truly don't know where. Any chance you can help me out?

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    I am a commercial pattern maker who is now "sewing over 50"!
    I love to sew and hope to encourage others to come back to sewing.
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