My pants are all cut out and since I was fit in a muslin version, I feel pretty confident that I can assemble them leaving off the waist facing THEN try them on to fine tune the fit.
I used linen to interface the yoke pieces. Even though I've learned how to use fusibles better ... I still prefer natural sewn-in interfacing for most my own clothes.
Pockets first ... I pin ...
As I worked on the pockets I kept checking that all the seams were smooth. This one wasn't so I picked in out and sewed it a second time.
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And then sew the fashion fabric edges to the pocket pieces.
And I grade my inside seam, as always, at the pocket edge.
Well worth the time for pockets that lie flat.
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The biggest pain was the fly for the zipper. I think the fly took as long an everything else. Next pair of pants I'm going to put the zipper in the side seam! Really. It is more flattering over the stomach to not have a zipper there, since most of the time I wear my tops over the top of my pants. But this time I'm following the directions and making a proper fly.
Before putting in the special fly backing piece, the zipper has to be set in, almost like a regular single lap zipper, but with this slightly stretchy fabric, I got a nasty bubble at the bottom on one side of the zipper. So, this section had to come and out, be pinned a lot and carefully stitched, sewing over the pins. Usually I pull my pins as I get to them, but I really needed to leave them in, so nothing would shift.
Before putting in the special fly backing piece, the zipper has to be set in, almost like a regular single lap zipper, but with this slightly stretchy fabric, I got a nasty bubble at the bottom on one side of the zipper. So, this section had to come and out, be pinned a lot and carefully stitched, sewing over the pins. Usually I pull my pins as I get to them, but I really needed to leave them in, so nothing would shift.
Pins in place
After the inside fly piece is attached, it needs to be pinned out of the way to do the main exterior topstitching.
Fly done.
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Stitching over pins
I pinned the lap opening together, but it could be basted. I did baste where the topstitching should go.
Waistband on, without facing so the fitting can be fine tuned. I made sure the seam on the left and right matched up exactly.
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The basic fit is OK, but still too much wearing ease for my taste, especially considering this fabric has a slight stretch.
Tomorrow, final fitting and finishing.
Tomorrow, final fitting and finishing.
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