New pattern #1551 - dramatic fantasy dresses ... sewing tips

7/31/2013

Several people have asked where they can buy all the new patterns I posted on Monday. They have been shipped to stores such as Joann's, Hancock, Hobby Lobby, and Walmart and so, in the US, should be available within the week. They will go live on the Simplicity website in a couple days. I will let you all know as soon as I do.

Outside the US I think it will take about a month, but I would think you should be able to order from the website. They have all sorts on little international flags in the upper left hand corner of their home page. Have any of you folks living outside the US tried to order from the website? Please let me know if it works. How long does it take for the stuff to arrive? Have there been any problems?

These two dresses, I think, will be very flattering on most everyone.

Below are the photos I took of these dresses before boxing them up to send to Simplicity.

This dress is made of white crepe with chiffon sleeves and draped collar.

This dress is made with a heavy grey polyester fabric that I think has some rayon in it that adds to the weight. I might be called "suiting" fabric. The white inset is a polyester knit.

The sewing of these dresses is pretty straight forward, except for getting the nice draped effect at the neck of both for them.

This is what that collar piece does if you don't help it drape in a more beautiful way. It just flops in one large fold.

The white dress has a collar that drapes front and back, the grey dress has a tacked in inset with a "front only" draped collar.

On a dress form, or with someone wearing the dress

Then carefully tack with just the tiniest bit of thread showing all the places that were pinned.

OR on a table, arrange and pin the collar into attractive folds.

Do this all the way through the neck facing for stability.

I bet you, any time you see a garment with fabric artfully wrapped and draped all over, it has been carefully planned and painstakingly sewn in place. To do this well is a true art.

Also ... if I were going to make one of these dresses, I would add a lot to the length of the train, at least 18" if not more. Buy at least a yard more fabric to do this. Then play around with the layout to get the most length for the train as possible. Do some careful piecing if that will help. In my opinion ... longer is better!

25 Comments

Bonnie Half-Elven link

7/31/2013 12:19:06 pm

Thanks for the insights into these!

Trains are gorgeous, but I avoid them in my costumes. They are just too impractical and even dangerous for the places I wear them - either outdoor environments with fine stone-covered walking paths or convention centers with escalators.

Meriel Greyvale

8/2/2013 01:21:16 am

Trains are gorgeous but even when worn indoors they get really dirty, really fast. So you need to protect the fabric with something like Scotchgard. Spray the fabric on the top and bottom. It won't guarantee that the train will remain stain free but will definitely help.

Another thing that is helpful is to line the train. Not only does it help the train lie more smoothly as you walk, the lining picks up any dirt, dust and whatever from the floor/ground. If the train's lining gets truly stained to the point that it won't wash out you can always replace it, thus extending the lifetime of your gown.

Lex

10/16/2013 06:11:53 pm

I was so excited to see this pattern that I bought it immediately and have 10m of lovely poly taffeta in Aubergine. Plan to add sleeves inside the 'cape sleeve' as I don't like bare arms (I've modified a sleeve from a chemise pattern. When I get around to cutting the pattern I will adjust the sleeve pattern accordingly. I will probably leave the train as is - I love trains too but they aren't massively practical. I'm quite tall too so I already need to add 4 inches of length to each of the gown pieces. I have a lovely aubergine chiffon for the neck and was wondering how to make it look lovely so thank you for this article.

Most historical costumers will put in a hem facing of a stiff cotton or organdie which is easily replaceable so it is likely that I will do this on the train.

Lastly I plan to embroider the outside of the cape sleeve and fully line the whole thing. My last modification of one of your patterns for the LotR style gowns turned out beautifully.

Also - zips. Ack. Will be making a modesty panel, some self-covered buttons and spaghetti straps to turn into button loops. LeBoyfriend is going to LOVE buttoning up THAT XD.

Andrea

10/16/2013 11:20:59 pm

Thanks for the comments. Would love to see your LotR gown. Email me from the contact page and then I can respond and THEN you could send me a photo.

Also, you might consider putting in eyelets or grommets and lacing up the back. You boyfriend might even like that better??

10/17/2013 01:39:35 am

I have considered this although I will be wearing the gown over either full or underbust corset with back lacing so the closure of the gown is of secondary importance to me - primarily I'm thinking about aesthetics and I LOVE the idea of the self covered buttons - they look so elegant on bridal gowns. I experimented with the Olive green gown and put 3 buttons up the back of the collar neck and despite them being an afterthought (i.e. not stitched in when I did the seam) they have turned out beautifully. I also constructed the gown entirely by hand using the Elizabethan seam technique which was totally new to me so it was a great project for advancing my skills.

Tyger

6/1/2014 03:06:36 pm

Do you know if this pattern runs small/tight in some areas of the dress?

natalie

9/21/2014 06:21:49 pm

Im doing the design and am little stuck at point 13 for dress B, it says to baste the shoulder edges. What bits r considered the shoulder edges?

Clem Ti

10/26/2014 09:21:35 am

How do you sew on the sleeves?

10/27/2014 02:04:19 am

The sleeves are first hemmed, then pleats folded and sewn and I recommend connecting the open front edges to create a complete sleeve, then sew the sleeve onto the armhole. The body of the dress would be pretty much finished at this point. This means you will be stitching all around the complete circle of the armhole.

Sirie

1/8/2015 04:18:11 am

Dear Andrea,

I am planning to make a Flax Linen wedding dress. Would the Simplicity 1551 work in Linen?

Thank you for your time!

1/8/2015 10:06:18 pm

It would look lovely in Linen. It is designed for a woven, non-stretch fabric, so that should work fine.
Is the dress for you? In any case all my best wishes to the happy couple.

Andrea

1/8/2015 11:04:01 pm

Dear Andrea,

Yes the dress will be for me and thank you for the well wishes. Hopefully I will be blessed enough to make it within the next 18 months. Thank you for the advice.

Blessings,
Sirie

Ana

2/28/2015 06:33:23 am

May I ask you what type of crepe exactly did you use? I am experiencing some difficulties finding the right fabric for this project and I need to order it online :(

2/28/2015 08:51:01 pm

Ana, for the white dress I used polyester crepe from Joann's. Can't remember where I got the grey. The white fabric can be a bit "see-through". If you plan to use white, you might want to flat line it with something white, or even something beige or tan to blend with the skin. Check this out by laying your fashion fabric over different flat lining fabrics..

Leah Day link

9/11/2015 05:35:13 am

I'm creating this dress as a costume for Halloween and cosplay. Your blog was forwarded to me by a friend and I've blogged about creating this dress here: http://freemotionquilting.blogspot.com/2015/09/galadriel-lord-of-rings-costume-part-1.html

My modifications are fairly simple - I've cut off the train completely to make the dress more viable in a cosplay situation. I'm remembering the trials I had with the back of my wedding dress being continually stepped on and I don't want to repeat the experience!

I also decided (after carefully gathering and draping the fabric) that I didn't like the draped neckline. I'm going to exchange this with a centered embroidery design, probably a rose from Urban Threads.

I do like what another commenter suggested about cloth covered buttons and cording. Do you have a suggestion for a book or pattern for learning how to modify a zipper into a different closure?

Thank you! I'm really loving your dress design!

9/12/2015 06:15:11 am

Very cool Leah. What an interesting and quick way to fit a garment! Had you posted part 2 yet? I'm eager to see the finished dress.

As for the zipper, if you use an invisible zipper, it won't show at all. It will just look like a seam. Or you could lace up the back, I should write a blog about that. I don't know of any book that tells you how to convert an opening. But basically you need to finish the back edges with a facing and use good stiff interfacing for support. Then apply eyelets or small grommets down each side. ALWAYS PRACTICE ON SCRAP FABRIC! Then you also might want a modestly panel for behind the lacing, kind of like the tongue of a shoe.
Lt me know if that helps.

Gillian B

4/26/2016 07:59:25 am

I've just bought the pattern, and am considering a number of possibilities that include using up some of the lovely silk stash I've accumulated over the years (mid-dark blue embroidered silk for the body, and then a soft woven raw silk for the drapey sleeves.)

All this because a friend is getting married, and the theme is "Lord of the Rings".

Shame I can't persuade my husband to wear elf ears!

4/30/2016 02:36:58 pm

Sounds beautiful. Make it up and send me a photo at scheweandrea@yahoo.com

Cassie

9/23/2016 10:33:07 am

i just bought the pattern to this dress and it has been a while since i done any major sewing but i do small stuff like fix holes in clothes but is this pattern okay for a person who is okay at sewing - Thank you for your time

Krisztina

2/15/2017 02:51:25 pm

HI Andrea,how long does it take to make the dress,I'm thinking of attempting the grey one

2/15/2017 07:48:22 pm

This is very difficult to answer. It, of course, depends on how fast a seamstress you are. But, I would estimate 2 solid days of sewing. This is just a guess.
good luck!

Imma

3/8/2017 10:15:56 am

Dear Andrea,

I need the patterns! Could you send me these, please? My friend will married and I need a medieval dress, but in my city there aren't any shop to buy them.

Thanks a lot!

Imma D.

3/8/2017 11:09:05 am

Imma,
I don't have access to patterns myself. I work in my home office quite far from Simplicity. BUT, you can easily buy this pattern online. Here is the link. I think you will have to cut and paste it into your browser.
http://www.simplicity.com/simplicity-pattern-1551-misses-costumes/1551.html

Mandy

8/24/2017 03:32:07 pm

Hello Andrea,
I am actually planning on making this for my higher course in fashion and I am very excited for the final outcome.

Could you maybe estimate how much of each fabric I would need for a size 8 dress if possible?

I don't want to order too much and be left with a tonne of leftover crepe.

Thanks :)

8/30/2017 02:12:01 pm

The back of the envelope should have the required yardage for a size 8. But, if you want to be more precise use some tape to mark out an area the same size as the fabric you will use and do a trial layout. That is what I always do. It is good practice!

Best, Andrea

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New pattern #1551 - dramatic fantasy dresses ... sewing tips

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