Deborah Kreiling, the head of the pattern making department at Simplicity, offered to fit me in a pants muslin a while back and last week I took her up on that offer.
I have never really been happy with the fit of any pants I have made for my self and am eager to find out what I'm doing wrong.
I have never really been happy with the fit of any pants I have made for my self and am eager to find out what I'm doing wrong.
Deborah told me to choose any of the Amazing Fit pants patterns. I chose one that I thought was really basic, thinking I could make style changes on it later.
Little did I know, but I chose the very first one they made.
So here is what I did and what I learned.
I followed the instructions as exactly as I could. I am a size 14, but my total crotch measurement is slightly longer than the curvy measurement, the longest.
So I used the curvy size 14 pattern.
BUT!!
I found out there is more that one reason you can have a long crotch measurement.
Simplicity's choices of slim, regular and curvy address the most common reason for variations in the crotch measurement, which is how round is your bottom.
So I used the curvy size 14 pattern.
BUT!!
I found out there is more that one reason you can have a long crotch measurement.
Simplicity's choices of slim, regular and curvy address the most common reason for variations in the crotch measurement, which is how round is your bottom.
The first thing Deborah did was to start pinning out the extra fullness in the back! The curvy pattern has two darts on each side for the back and she said I only need one and should change to the average pattern, which only has one. So, how did I go wrong???
Well ... I actually have a flat bottom, according to Deborah, but have a long rise. So what's the best way to determine this measurement.
Here is a diagram from the PGM dress form website, the brand Simplicity carries. Which, by the way, I would buy a size 10 of, even though I use a size 14 pattern. And I wear a 4 or 6 in store bought clothes!! How confusing is that?
Here is a diagram from the PGM dress form website, the brand Simplicity carries. Which, by the way, I would buy a size 10 of, even though I use a size 14 pattern. And I wear a 4 or 6 in store bought clothes!! How confusing is that?
The rise is that measurement being taken sitting down.
But, Deborah said an easier and actually better way to figure out the rise you want is measure a pair of pants you own and really like how they fit. Then compare that to the pattern you are making.
Nicole Tapanes, the customer help person at Simplicity was there, too. She has had the pattern department fit her in pants also. She is really one size in the front and another size in the back. She adds extra width in the crotch on the back pattern piece only. But, another way to address that issue is use two different size patterns. If your measurements don't fit neatly into the options given on the guide sheet consider using two different sizes. And make sure to measure pants you own that fit you well.
The other issue I had was the amount of wearing ease in this pattern. I made the size that I was supposed to make for my measurement. But this gave me 4 extra inches all around which is much, much more than I like. Deborah said these pants are more like formal trousers than jeans. Also it's easier to pin out extra fullness when fitting than take it in, so Simplicity gives a comfortable amount of ease. Pin it out, if you don't like it. But, she also said, we need some wearing ease so we can walk and sit. The rule of thumb for a close fitting garment is 2 inches. But, again, measure a pair of pants you like wearing to find out how much wearing ease is good for you.
But, Deborah said an easier and actually better way to figure out the rise you want is measure a pair of pants you own and really like how they fit. Then compare that to the pattern you are making.
Nicole Tapanes, the customer help person at Simplicity was there, too. She has had the pattern department fit her in pants also. She is really one size in the front and another size in the back. She adds extra width in the crotch on the back pattern piece only. But, another way to address that issue is use two different size patterns. If your measurements don't fit neatly into the options given on the guide sheet consider using two different sizes. And make sure to measure pants you own that fit you well.
The other issue I had was the amount of wearing ease in this pattern. I made the size that I was supposed to make for my measurement. But this gave me 4 extra inches all around which is much, much more than I like. Deborah said these pants are more like formal trousers than jeans. Also it's easier to pin out extra fullness when fitting than take it in, so Simplicity gives a comfortable amount of ease. Pin it out, if you don't like it. But, she also said, we need some wearing ease so we can walk and sit. The rule of thumb for a close fitting garment is 2 inches. But, again, measure a pair of pants you like wearing to find out how much wearing ease is good for you.
So, since there is 4 inches of ease and I only want 2, she said I could use the size 12 lines for my hips, but still need the 14 for my waist.
Which is what she was drawing in red here.
So, I was all ready to go home, make these adjustments, and make a new muslin.
BUT THEN ... they made and printed out a special ... Andrea Schewe special size pattern, just for me!!!!
I felt like Queen for a Day .... anyone remember that show??
BUT THEN ... they made and printed out a special ... Andrea Schewe special size pattern, just for me!!!!
I felt like Queen for a Day .... anyone remember that show??
She also printed out her favorite "Threads" pants pattern for me that isn't in the catalog anymore. It has some really good sewing techniques that I will show you when I get around to making these up for real.
I started looking for fabric, but haven't found anything special enough yet.
Now I can get to work cleaning my studio ...
It is really bad.
Now I can get to work cleaning my studio ...
It is really bad.
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