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Pattern 1122 - Girls need tulle, too!

4/29/2015

10 Comments

 
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I'm happy to say that the tulle skirt pattern I designed for adults last year has sold well enough, that Simplicity asked for a similar pattern for big and little girls!

They thought the knee length version with the extra ruffle would kind of overwhelm a child, so this pattern has the basic multi layer shirt in two lengths and one with a hem that slants from short in the front to long in the back.
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My first job was to figure out how many layers for each size and how many panels of tulle for each. Here is my first set of mock ups. Cute, even in beige!
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I'm going to talk about cutting in this blog.  Just like the adult version, the underskirt is cut in a circle, to allow for a lot of fulness at the bottom and very little bulk at the waist.
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These skirts are made up of many layers that all look the same after cutting and before sewing.  I made up a numbering system that I could safety pin to the different layers after cutting.
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Whenever possible, I cut tulle as it comes off the bolt, folded in fourths. It is so much easier to work with like this instead of being opened up flat. And, a rotary cutter makes all the edges really smooth and straight.
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And, you can see, I have safety pinned a number on these pile of cut tulle to keep things organized.
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But, for this view since the pieces are not perfect rectangles, the tulle will have to be opened up ... sigh.
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It is nice to have a big table to do this. The tulle is 54" wide. I have doubled it in order to cut the left and right sides of the skirt at the same time.
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I take the top end of my length of tulle and bring it to the bottom end to double it for cutting. I will be less likely to waste any that way. But, this leaves the rest of the tulle (waiting it's turn to be cut) in kind of a jumble.
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I know some of you will end up using the floor to spread this fabric out and let me warn you that tulle is the most amazing lint and dust magnet!  And all the stuff that sticks to tulle can be easily seen. This is especially frustrating when bits of this and that are stuck between the very, very full layers and you can't tell if it's between layer 2 and 3 or layer 3 and 4.


I've learned this the hard way.

so ... SWEEP!! ... first

Actually sweep anyway, no matter where you are cutting.  That tulle is just going to pick up whatever it can. And maybe invest in a can of "Static Guard".
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So, back to cutting the skirt with the uneven hem. The pieces need to be cut with the fabric opened out like this.
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I like to use weights instead of pins, especially for something like this.
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So, here are all four photo samples cut and ready to sew. Which I will talk about next time.
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One more thing.
I, also, decided to make labels that say inner and outer to make sure I didn't mix up the layers that get sewn to the bottom edge inner yoke with the layers that get sewn to the upper edge of the inner yoke which is then sewn to the waist band. The inner layers are shorter than the outer ones.

This skirt is constructed the same way as the original one for adults with an inner yoke which keeps excess bulk away from the waist.

I wrote a blog just explaining that clearly ... this entire sentence is a link to that blog posting.
10 Comments
Liz
2/18/2016 06:10:35 am

Help!! I cannot figure out how the waistband is attached. The instructions are very unclear. I have tried twice and had to rip out. It's not working! I am making these skirts for the flower girls in my sister's wedding, so I'm feeling pretty desperate. Is there anyway you can explain it in other terms?

Reply
Andrea
2/18/2016 06:39:46 am

Simplicity has expert sewing help people. Just call this number 1-(888)-588-2700.
Or if you can't get through there is an email address printed on the pattern tissue or guide sheet. They should be able to set you straight. Hope the wedding is wonderful.

Reply
Helen
4/12/2016 01:47:34 pm

Liz, did you ever conquer the skirt? I have sewn for 40 years and can't figure this one out! The tutorial for the adult size skirt didn't help either. I guess I am questioning the directions for the pattern. It just seems the inside of the yoke never gets finished...is this right? You just have a bunch of seams on the inside?

Reply
Andrea
4/14/2016 04:43:09 am

Helen,
I see you found the blog explaining the inside yoke. I will answer you there as well.
Yes, there are exposed seams on the inside of the skirt. I would recommend serging them or zig zagging over them.
I did this because I didn't want the bulk of another layer.

Connie D
8/30/2017 06:19:26 pm

thank goodness I see your comment "I have sewn for 40 years and can't figure it out" I was feeling really irritated because i have spent $$ on all this and now I get to this step and I am lost!!! these directions must be wrong!!!

Latifah
6/28/2016 12:48:55 pm

I am having the same problem with the Simplicity pattern1122, please share the link for the blog that give further explanation. It was all going so well, now I cannot finish. I think a different casing design would be a good improvement for the next printing.

Reply
Andrea
6/29/2016 09:27:18 am

Sorry you are having trouble. If you type "1122" into the search box, links the other blogs I've written about this pattern will come up. You could try searching the word "tulle" as well.
Hope this helps.

Reply
Sarah
7/3/2016 07:15:52 pm

I'm having the same problem with the pattern instructions. The yoke and casing instructions don't make sense! I'm in the midst of making flower girl skirts for my daughter's wedding. Help!

Reply
Andrea
7/3/2016 11:16:04 pm

Sarah, so sorry you are having trouble. If you click on the last sentence in the blog post above, it will take you to a blog I wrote that tells more about the yoke and waistband. If you are still having trouble, contact Simplicity's customer help department. The info to reach them should be on the guide sheet. That's what they are there for and they are really good at it.
Best, Andrea

Reply
Zena Herbert
8/15/2018 07:23:41 am

Regarding the raw edges of the yoke and dress net; I didn't like them. I cut a facing for the yoke and sandwiched the 3 net edges and the lining skirt between that and the yoke proper. I basted the top edges of the yoke together (yoke and facing) and stitched it onto the lower edge of the waistband with the next layer of the skirt (the 2-net one). I turned over the top edge of the waistband and stitched that down over that second lot of seams (2-layer net and yoke). It was slightly thicker but a great deal neater.

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    From Andrea 

    I am a commercial pattern maker who is now "sewing over 50"!
    I love to sew and hope to encourage others to come back to sewing.
    The water is fine!!

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