Costume sewing often requires using fabrics that we may not normally deal with only sewing fashion, such as fur and spandex and ... leather - real and fake.
OF COURSE do a test with a scrap of fabric and interfacing to see how hot you can get your iron. Pleather and other vinyls will melt. But, you would be surprised how often a very hot iron can be used ... no problem ... but test first!
So, for this pattern I recommend folding and pressing the edges of the straps and belts, then
Notice I am using a foot made with silicone. It is a miracle!!! The sticky pleather just slides under it, no problem. If you don't have one of these feet, like I didn't for most of my life, cut strips off the edges of the tissue pattern sheets and put that under your sewing machine foot and stitch right through it. Then tear the tissue paper away after you are finished sewing.
It is best to use a longer stitch when sewing any kind of leather or vinyl. I remember one time when I was still working in the professional shops in New York, the shop head reminded someone who was about to sew some leather to use a long stitch. She said to him ... "remember ... tear on the dotted line!"
Leather and vinyl are more likely to tear if small stitches are used.
I prefer not to turn this piece through tiny opening for the same reason I made the straps with one turning. Vinyl sticks to itself so can be difficult to turn and can look really beat up if too much effort has been used while turning.
It is made with a very, very thin layer of actual leather on a slightly stretchy backing. So you can make this top fit pretty tightly.
So, this fabric like any other leather or vinyl should be sewn with the following guidelines.
#1 - try to only pin in the seam allowances or near the edge when sewing, cutting or fitting.
#2 - use very fine pins, unless it is a heavy fabric and needs stronger pins
#3 - stitch with a LONG machine stitch
#4 - use a silicone foot or pattern paper tissue under the presser foot if fabric is sticking.