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Simplicity #1215 - Elsa's Snowflake dress - the cape

11/19/2014

8 Comments

 
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So, why were these two dresses put in the same pattern package? First, if you discount the sheer yoke and sleeve on Elsa's snowflake dress, the two bodices are really the same shape.  I decided to make a separate, boned, lined bustier that zips in the back with a separating zipper. Then the two very different skirts could just be separate skirts. And the sheer yoke and sleeves for Elsa's dress become a very close fitting sheer spandex top. That's how it's drawn in the movie anyway. And then the cape can be removable by having it attach with hooks along the upper back edge of the bustier.

Often I have to be very careful about pattern pieces getting too large, but these two skirts didn't cause a problem. Elsa's skirt is very slim and Anna's pleated skirt has three skinny pieces that are each cut ten times each. That allowed me to make a nice BIG cape.
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Here is Elsa's spandex top when I was trying to get the fit just right ... close fitting but not too, too tight.
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When work is done for an official licensed character, the company that holds the license sends out an official character book with pages and pages of images and other information such as specific Pantone colors that should be used. This is easy for people making printed things like bed sheets and lunch boxes. They mix paint until they get the right color.

But, we just have to do our best to find fabrics that are as close as possible. The licensor, in this case Disney, has to approve everything. I've worked on projects where the actual costume was sent in and came back with all sorts of notes pinned all over for the corrections they wanted.

Now usually photos are sent of the finished costumes for approval and I'm lucky that there haven't been too many changes as of late.
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The Frozen character book has several pages of "official" snowflakes. I chose 5 different ones that I thought could be modified into a shape that wasn't too hard cut out multiple times without losing your mind.
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I then ran the ones I chose through my copy machine several times until they were the sizes I wanted.
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Here they are all ready. Fabric is pressed to the fusible webbing ready to go on the cape. I will explain how I got to this point.
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This photo shows the design of the cape pretty well. 
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The upper section is aqua and the lower section is white. The divide between these two colors is a lot of jagged lines. After a lot of experimentation I determined the best way to do this would be to lap the aqua over the white, zig zag along the edge and then ...
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CAREFULLY cut away the excess in the back. I made the pattern with about a 1" overlap allowance to make is easy to line up, but this extra does need to be trimmed away.
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I'm tracing the snowflake designs onto the paper side of the fusible webbing here. A small ruler really helps to keep all those lines straight.
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Using iron on fusible webbing with a sheer fabric works fine BUT you have to use baking parchment paper on both sides. Otherwise the gluey stuff gets on the iron, the ironing board and everywhere else you don't want it.

Now, in this photo I'm pressing the paper backed webbing to the fabric, so in this case I only needed the baking parchment on the back side of the fabric.
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Once the shapes are cut out, the paper is peeled away and the snowflakes can be pressed onto the lower part of the cape.  This is where it is crucial to have that parchment above and below the fabrics while pressing.
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Allow the snowflake to cool down, but not completely. I found it was easier to peel the parchment away if everything was just a tad warm.
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After each snow flake I put the cape back over my pattern piece to make sure all the snowflakes were going in the correct place and both sides were even.
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The bottom and sides of the cape are hemmed by machine with a tiny rolled hem. The top edge is finished with a narrow binding. This is substantial enough to sew a bunch of small hooks and snaps to. I left the bottom edge of the trim loose, so the corresponding eyes and snaps could be sewn UNDER the trim. That makes the cape look as if it it is part of the dress. I like this method, too, because it gives a very smooth look in the back. There is no zipper going up the back of the sheer top and there is no break or opening in the cape.


Friday, Anna's pleated skirt.
8 Comments
LauraSB
11/19/2014 07:44:06 am

I just wanted to say how much I enjoy these "creating a costume pattern" posts. The odds of me sewing one of these costumes are vanishingly small, but the process is fascinating. If I should ever need a costume pattern, I will look at Simplicity first, because I enjoy these so much.

Reply
June link
11/21/2014 10:32:08 am

I am working on making the child's costume for my daughters (in knits, so no zips), and I'd come up with an idea close to what you described for the detachable cape. I was planning to sew the trim to the cape itself and then use invisible snaps on the underside, but your way is better because when the cape is not on, the trim will hide the other half of the snaps!

I notice that the cape sits higher on the child's costume (it dips to go under the arm) than in the adult version, and also the child's cape goes partly across the front, whereas this does not (?). Just curious, but why the differences?

Loving this series - thanks for posting so many details!

Reply
Andrea
11/21/2014 10:37:05 pm

Hi June,
To answer your questions about the differences between the patterns. The child one I did the series of tutorials on is made to be a one piece garment, modified from another existing pattern. Where as this new Misses pattern I made from scratch. The bodice is a completely separate piece, which naturally wants to sit a little lower in the back.
But, really the answer is I made them at 2 very different times and I didn't have as good reference photos the first time around.
And, the official Simplicity child's costume pattern was made by the pattern makers in Simplicity's New York offices and they had their own take on it.
The cape does wrap around to the front slightly if you take a good look. Because of the adult bust it isn't as obvious.

Reply
June link
11/25/2014 03:49:03 am

Thanks for your reply! I am still smiling at the thought of officially endorsed Frozen snowflakes, too.

Maryann
11/22/2014 12:05:01 pm

Wow, thanks so much for the post and really good break down! I think I might try these out next Halloween, if I can find an Elsa to drag around.
Incidentally, would it be possible for you to post the 'Anna' character description, or anything else from the pitch bible? I love that behind the scenes stuff. :)

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Michelle
12/5/2014 01:20:09 am

Oh my goodness! These are such beautiful designs! You did such a fabulous job! This pattern was everywhere when I went on my last JoAnns excursion.

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Michelle
10/2/2015 06:53:17 pm

I am currently working with this pattern. I was a little intimidated by the cape, but it is coming along nicely. I do love the detail and can't wait to wear this dress, when we attend "Mickey's Not So Scary Halloween Party" with our granddaughter. She will be Anna or Elsa, not completely decided yet. She has both Disney Dresses :)

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Crystal
5/3/2016 09:43:08 am

I am so thankful for your website. I'm a very visual person and I admit this pattern uses a lot of techniques and materials new to me. It is great to see this post and better understand. Quick question- what thread did you use to piece the organza together on the cape? The pattern said something about silk or nylon? I've only used a polyester clear that can be wound and used in my sewing machine and I'm not having luck googling. Will the polyester I have work?

Reply



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    From Andrea 

    I am a commercial pattern maker who is now "sewing over 50"!
    I love to sew and hope to encourage others to come back to sewing.
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