The little tear drop shaped hat is made with some standard millenary materials, but not with true millinery techniques. The buckram is shaped with darts instead of steaming it and moulding it over a hat block. Because I don't have a hat block and I bet most of you don't either so I figured out a way to get the same look with tools that most people would have.
I took more photographs of making the purple hat because it is easier to see what I'm doing in the darker colors. But the white hat is made the same way.
I took more photographs of making the purple hat because it is easier to see what I'm doing in the darker colors. But the white hat is made the same way.
To make the basic foundation, first sew the darts and center seam in the buckram and lining.
Layer the buckram and lining, seam allowances for both facing inwards. Join by stitching along the seam line. Then trim close to this stitching line ... very close.
Whip stitch millinery wire right along this edge. Join the ends with an optional wire joiner. Wires can be overlapped and taped or wrapped with thread as well.
The wire is what makes this hat look and feel professional. It gives the outer edge substance and allows the hat to be bent slightly to conform to the shape of the head.
The wire is what makes this hat look and feel professional. It gives the outer edge substance and allows the hat to be bent slightly to conform to the shape of the head.
Pull the bias cut top piece smoothly over the foundation and pin, a lot. Hold your iron above and pump steam down onto it to smooth and stretch the fabric and pin some more.
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Use a hand running stitch to sew the fabric to foundation just to the inside edge of the wire. I find it helps to check top and bottom sides frequently.
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Trim close, again. Then make double fold bias with the hat fabric ... instructions should be in the pattern.
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Use a hand running stitch along one of the folds of the bias to sew it to the hat. Bring the bias around to the inside of the hat and slip stitch in place.
I gathered the netting for both hats with 1/8” ribbon, using a small safety pin at the end to guide it through all the holes.
Arrange and pin gathered net in place along underside edge of hat.
Hand sew in place. It can be left like this OR get optional extra inside finish.
Cut another bias strip using the same pattern. This time press it in half.
Use a hand running stitch to sew it down next to the bias binding, just covering the ribbon that gathered the net.
Use a hand running stitch to sew it down next to the bias binding, just covering the ribbon that gathered the net.
Fold this bias down so all rough edges of the netting are covered and slip stitch in place.
I found a curved needle made this job much easier.
I found a curved needle made this job much easier.
Very professional looking, I think.
Enough for this time. Next time trimming this hat and making and trimming the one with the big cluster of roses.
Enough for this time. Next time trimming this hat and making and trimming the one with the big cluster of roses.
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