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Swedish Linen

9/8/2014

2 Comments

 
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I didn't bring home as many souvenirs and craft items from my recent trip to Scandinavia as I did when I traveled to south east Asia last summer. The exchange rate wasn't quite as favorable ... AND this was a trip to get to know my newly discovered Swedish relative and to hike the fjords. 
But, my wonderful Swedish cousin brought me to a famous linen weaving shop, not too far from his home. I bought this lovely table mat above and got to see weaving in action ... the old fashioned way and using modern machines.
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We visited KLÄSSBOLS LINNEVÄVERI, which is Swedish for Klassbols Linen Weavery.
The Swedish royal family get their table cloths and napkins from here.

Visit their website ... you can even buy on line, if you want!

You can even buy the linen thread if you are a weaver. Here is their description of the yarn. Almost every Swede I met spoke excellent English, but sometimes it just comes out funny sounding.

YARN
Now we also sell yarn for you that weaves by your self.
Each barrel has about 100 g flax 17.


I wish I could get yarn that weaves by myself ...
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They weave all sorts of cloth for table use and home decoration, but what they are famous for is their Damask. Here is an explanation from the website.

Damask - weaving fit for a prince

The artistic weaving technique known as damask is said to have first been created in Damascus, from where it has also derived its name. It was the fabric woven for the fine clothing of princes and for purely decorative purposes. Today, damask is still regarded as one of the most elegant woven cloths.

To cultivate, dress, spin and weave linen is an ancient art in Sweden, but the art of weaving patterned linen was hardly known here before the seventeenth century. Though, of course, the "hey-day" of lovers of beautiful things tempted skilful weavers here too. Queen Hedvig Eleonora ordered a large amount of tablecloths and napkins from some weavers in Stockholm in the year of 1696. This ensured that the Swedish linen damask industry got properly underway. 
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These card have holes, kind of like the holes in a player piano role or on the barrel of a music box. I'm told old computer punch cards were based on these.
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The weaver uses foot pedals to progress from card to card.






The cards control these strings and weights that lift up different groups of the warp treads (lengthwise threads) and then the shuttle is passed through the space created.








Little by little the pattern emerges.

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But, lovely and interesting as that is, the bulk of the weaving is done on modern machines. 
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I found it so interesting that we were allowed to walk around, without supervision in this area. We were just expected to stay behind the yellow and black striped line. In the US, I think, we would have been more restricted.
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This place was fascinating and LOUD ... look at the headgear of the worker on the right.
These machines work on the same basic principles as the hand loom, but faster ... much faster!
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OH ... and I want to leave you with the audio of the wooden hand loom vs. the modern mechanized one.
On Wednesday I will show you want I learned about the origins of jacquard weaving.
2 Comments
Mary Parulski
9/8/2014 09:35:32 am

Is the wooden loom called a "jacquard loom"? If so then I think this machine designed by Joseph-Marie Jacquard and may have been the start of what has become our contemporary Computer

Reply
Gwen Gyldenege link
9/9/2014 07:24:18 am

Oh my goodness that is so amazing and intriguing. I've worked in the auto industry and around cranes. That set-up is so similar. It's odd to see fashion/fabric and heavy industrial worlds collide. We've so few factories that make any clothing in the US that it's a foreign concept. I never knew that they used cards like that. Makes so much sense. I adore that first photo of the flowers. Swedish textiles are such a treat to me. I like how they have a simple elegance about them. No need to go over the top. A single shape repeated will make it's own statement. Did you notice that about a lot of the Scandinavian culture? Thanks for sharing the history too. Starting in the 1600's... my that's wonderful.

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    From Andrea 

    I am a commercial pattern maker who is now "sewing over 50"!
    I love to sew and hope to encourage others to come back to sewing.
    The water is fine!!

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