The flower corset with the tulle skirts #1427

See that flower print corset?  I made that using another pattern that that you can still buy.

This is pattern #5006. And the corset above is sewn from this pattern.

It is made from a quilting cotton which is not the recommended fabric. I'm going to show you what I did to make it work. First, with a print, you always need to be mindful of where all the various motifs are going to land.

I made sure the flower clusters were staggered. I wanted them to look random. And I wanted to be sure roses didn't end up parallel on each bosom.  Sometimes a perfectly symmetrical motif setting is desired (think tudor bodice) and I can even see a scenario where you might WANT roses on each breast! (think silly)

Because this outer fabric is not as strong and stable as the fabric called for in the pattern, I will use fusible interfacing as is called for plus an added layer. I make sure to let each piece sit on my ironing board, untouched, until completely cool after fusing the interfacing on.  This will prevent bubbling ... thank you Sheila Lenkman!

The extra layer will be sewn all as a unit with the main fabric.  Quality broadcloth is a good choice for this extra layer.  It is comfortable next the skin, is fairly strong and because it isn't slick the corset will stay put.  I advise strongly against lining corsets with slick fabrics. You don't want your corset to slide around your body and end up out of place. If you plan to lace yourself tightly, you might want to consider an even stronger fabric.  The ideal fabric is coutil, available at corset supply stores and websites.  But, I've used duck and I know people who have used pillow ticking.


It is best if a corset fabric doesn't stretch. You would be surprised ... most non-stretch woven fabrics have some give in them, usually on the cross grain.  So, try stretching your fabric sideways and lengthwise.  You might consider cutting the pieces sideways so the fibers going around your body are actually the straight grain of the fabric.  Or, if you are using an extra inner layer like I am, cut it sideways.

Here is a seam sewn with all the layers together.

The seam needs to be trimmed away to 1/4" and you folks know I like graded seams.

The seams need to be trimmed back so much, because the boning is going to be sewn over each seam covering the seam allowance and boning is usually about 1/2" wide.  If you use Ridgelene, you will probably need to sew on bone tape or twill tape to make a bone casing and then slide the Ridgelene in, because this corset doesn't have a standard lining that covers all the seams on the inside.

The top and bottom edge are finished with lingerie elastic. Stitch it on at the 5/8" seam line.  Then trim the seam allowance back so it won't show when the elastic is folded in and top stitched down.

Like this!


And here is a little secret ... you can tack bust pads to the seam allowances to fill out and give a little lift to the bosom, if you want.


I'm going to write more about corsets next week, discussing fabric, boning, grommet and lacing options.  There are many, each being good for different situations.  


Yes ... sometimes we don't need anything better than plastic feather boning.